Never mind the six feet… Let’s talk about the seven inches… Youth Dew by Estee Lauder The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Some said it was the largest trailer ever seen on location in the first six decades of the movies.

Some said it stipulated in her contract that it had to be the biggest, the best, the most extravagant and admired motor home in the history of American cinema.

No, in the history of America.

No one though could argue that right now it was rocking back and forth rhythmically and that the sounds emanating from within sounded a whole lot like on set love making.

Then. Nothing. Silence.

Suddenly the door of the Winnebago swings open and a spent twenty-something extra, shirtless and dishevelled stumbles on the metal steps before crashing to the floor.

The weary crew turn and watch and wait. Cups of going cold coffee in their hands, eye brows almost raised, bags weighing heavy underneath.

From the inner sanctum a sound like the rumble of distant Prairie thunder indicates a throat being cleared.

Then for a few consecutive seconds a huge hiss, a cross between a wet kiss and a punctured zeppelin, echoes across the set.

A moment later the same strange sound slithers all around again.

“She’s spraying” stage whispers the make up girl.

And all the assembled imagine in unison a dry ice cloud of perfume appearing from the doorway of the most elaborate caravan in creation.

What comes instead is at first one, then another, then a flourish of ostrich feathers.

A four letter word is the next thing to emerge from the palace on wheels, accompanying a very audible crash and the disappearance from sight of what must have been a spectacular headdress.

The vehicle lists dramatically as though a very heavy object has come to rest at an awkward angle, then it rights itself and footsteps can be heard.

The headdress it turns out is in fact a hat, and one of the most spectacular hats that Hollywood has ever seen at that.

Underneath this marvel of millinery is revealed the industrially beautiful demi goddess who has deigned to make ‘their movie’ magic with her mere presence.

As the cumulonimbus of her fragrant concoction forms a very warm front, enveloping fellow cast and crew alike, she, a no less impressive force of nature herself, processes into position.

The air is alight at first with an aldehyde brightness, then a thick viscous almost impenetrable jungle of smell, that near suffocates and yet at once seduces, saturates the atmosphere until it could almost be cut through with a spoon and eaten like syrup.
En masse they swoon.

The star meanwhile is gargling warm Coca Cola to relax her vocal chords.

“What the hell is that smell?” the director yells as after being summoned from his slumber he finally makes it to set.

“Why, mister ‘whatever-your-name-is-I’m-so-sorry-I-forgot’, that smell is me!”

He shrinks and she grows to fill the set as she will fill the screen.

She’s ready for her close up now.

Some say Estee Lauder’s Youth Dew used to be big.

Let me assure you Estee Lauder’s Youth Dew is big.

It’s other perfumes that got small.

This is a monster, but by no means a monstrous, scent.

The biggest perfume in American olfactory history in so many ways, it can still at the age of sixty plus not so much fill a room as engulf The Metropolitan Opera.

So what does the uber-scent smell like?

Without being facetious it smells like Youth Dew!

There are a handful of perfumes, No. 5 chief among them, that have a scent more of themselves than anything else.

They have become the points of comparison: other things smell like them, they do not smell like other things.

People dance like Ginger Rogers and Fred Astaire, we do not talk about those whose technique Fred and Ginger aped.

For the record though this opens all bracing aldehydes and then becomes an explosion in a spice factory, or maybe that should be on the production line of a well known syrupy soft drink.

But there’s more, an accord of oakmoss and patchouli lies underneath giving a slightly darker edge, while a powerful powdery musk introduces a maiden aunt propriety into the proceedings.

All in all it’s a bare knuckle battle between a prom queen, a spinster and the local tramp!

Or perhaps they are just the parts that Youth Dew plays, because being the true star of every scene it never really ever stops being itself.

Perhaps indeed it is that instant recognition factor combined with the towering personality that almost overshadows the wearer, the way stars outshine their characters, that leads some people to dismiss or even detest this perfume.

Is it possible that we just don’t want scent stars to be as big as Youth Dew undeniably is?

For I can find little to fault in the fragrance itself: an intense, engrossing, delicious self-contradiction of an aroma all wrapped up in bow.

And I, for one, am happy to bow before it!

Indeed, I would be scared witless but deliriously excited to take it out on a date.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen50s… Youth Dew by Estee Lauder Ain’t there anyone here for love? 

Jaynes Russell and Mansfield, Diana Dors and Doris Day, Joan Collins to Marylin Monroe and even the young Brigitte Bardot..

“Sex” as Mae West once exploded “Sells!!”

Mrs Estee Lauder new this only too well too…

From the hourglass figure flacon, tied tight at the waist with a bow, to the dirty bourbon colour of the liquid within Youth Dew is silver screen sex appeal made scent 1950s style.

Now in its sixties, some today sniff that this smells like a retirement home, if so those folks are the residents of what must be the happiest sunshine establishment on Earth.

This is not so much a fragrance as a full frontal attack on the olfactory faculties.

‘Oriental’ seems the only appropriate term for a perfume that has a hemisphere’s worth of notes in its all conquering harmony.

Oh yes it’s spicy, but search deeper into its endless depths of draped velvet, damask silks and satin petitcoats and you will find a crinoline like structure of oakmoss, aldehyde, patchouli and gunpowdery powerful musk keeping the whole pavlova like creation on the road.

But don’t be fooled into thinking that this is some bright falling star, this is one heavenly body that has the staying power to remain a celestial fixture for generations to come.

Quite apart from all aromatic pyrotechnics on show and the oh-so-not-so-subtle double entendre of the name, this immaculate liquor would earn its place at the top of the perfume tree for another reason alone.

Before Youth Dew, American women did not, as a rule, buy perfume.

A lucky few had fragrance bought for them and the rest did without.

Mrs Estee Lauder was not satisfied with this state of affairs and so set about to change it.

Releasing her 1953 fragrance, she executed a coup de parfum that would change the way that scent was sold forever.

By launching Youth Dew both as a perfume and an eminently affordable perfumed bath oil she liberated women by allowing them buy scent by stealth for themselves en masse for the first time.

Once the American woman was hooked on the intoxicating juice there could be, as Estee foretold, no turning back and the the rest as they say is the perfumed past.

So phenomenally important is this famous and infamous fragrance that The Dandy feels a full scented letter is needed to do justice to its incredible life…

A missive has, therefore, been penned and is in the post with a view to being with you shortly.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen60s… Norell by Norell The fragrance of freedom

IMG_20130708_213507 1968.

Revolution is in the air, just about everywhere.

France is on the brink, there are riots in the streets across Europe, while student sit ins, civil rights marches and assassinations rock a United States still at war in Vietnam.

Meanwhile in the East End of London, at an outpost of the vast empire that is the Ford Motor Company a group of women decide that they have had enough of doing same work as the men who stand alongside them on the production line day in day out and taking home a fraction of their pay at the end of every week.

These women are neither powerful nor wealthy nor well-known, they simply have an inate sense of fairness, and the courage to stand up for themselves.

British though they may be, these are the kind of women I imagine wearing ‘The First Great Perfume Born in America’.

‘Norell by Norell’ is a distintive, clear and confident new voice in fragrance.

In industrious though never industrial shades of green, here is a scent that is seductive in the way that self-assertion and self-posession always are.

It is a woman enjoying the freedom and independence that a career rather than a ‘pin money job’ or ‘playing at work’ can bring.

It is a sense of satisfaction at having fought the good fight for justice and having won.

Norell attracts the mind and the soul in equal measure.

A bold bouquet of hyacinths, carnations sequestered from bosses’ buttonholes and daffofils plucked playfully from factory forecourt flowerbeds it gains its greatest strength from a backbone of galbanum and oakmoss and an irreverent aromatic come herbaceous uncurrent cribbed wittily from genleman’s cologne.

It is equal opportunites civil rights olfactory tour de force.

And just like the women at the Ford plant in Dagenham England whose strike forced the global giant to deign to pay them the same as their menfolk… it’s a winner.

Only one great American perfume remains… what could it possible be?

While you’re pondering, why not take a look at the full review of Norell by Norell.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy. The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s Nemesis: A Bug

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A bug, a virus, hackers…. who know’s what or who, but The Dandy has been under attack from person or persons unknown.

Happily, hostilities have come to an end and I have been proved victorious… well at least the blighters seem to have disappeared.

Lest they return I shall keep a flacon of one most fantastically fierce of perfumes to hand…

Dior’s Miss Dior, the actual perfume not the current sickly sweet impersonator, is a determined blast of oakmoss and citrus that positively screams (or should that be stage whispers) sophistication and sang froid in almost equal measure.

It is a delicious aroma that cannot fail to make the wearer empowered and those who smell it ever so slightly in awe.

So, if any metaphorical beasties (not like the charming gentle caterpillar above, who is, I think, actually quite adorable) come crawling out of the woodwork I shall have some impressive repellent to hand.

Oh that reminds one… I did once write a full review of Miss Dior. Have a peek if it takes your fancy!!

I shall now be getting all things back in order so expect a minor flurry of correspondence from your dear friend over then next few days!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen70s… Alliage by Estee Lauder Game, set and match

It’s nearly the end of the second week of Wimbledon here in London and for once the weather is sunny and unbelievably warm…

So far so good, but what has it to do with women’s perfume, the 1970s or for that matter America?

Well quite a lot as it would happen.

For this year the Women’s Tennis Association, the body that runs the female professional game, celebrates 40 years since its inception at a meeting in a London hotel just before the All England Club‘s championships in June 1973.

The WTA was more than just an exercise in sports management power politics, it was an important stepping off point in female emancipation.

The organisation was founded by women players, led by the iconic Billy Jean King, for women players.

It saw as its purpose nothing less than achieving something that had never been done in any other sporting arena: gaining equal pay and equal status for female athletes.

Their battle would be hard in a world where newly commercial competions were dropping ‘the girls’ game altogether, and in those tournaments that remained open to all men could earn twelve time what women did.

But these were women as determined to win their battles off the court as their matches on it.

No perfume captures the independence of spirit and sense of purpose embodied by the stars who formed the WTA better than Esteee Lauder’s Alliage.

Marketed as the first ‘Sport Spray’ this is a verdent green and grassy, vigouros, coniferous, vibrant and unappologeticaly mossy affair.

What’s more Alliage acts as an immensely effective olfactory air conditioning unit for the athletic human form in motion.

It is tennis played by Amazons on sweltering Summer days without a bead of sweat arising from foreheads creased in sporting concentration.

It is sport as scent and the scent of sport.

Just as the WTA was a touchstone for the struggle of women across America, acoss the world indeed to gain better conditions in and in some cases even access to the workplace; so Alliage, launched just one year before it in 1972 was the poster woman of a dynamic new begining in fragrance.

Scents that made sense for women on the move, ‘girls who were going places’ suddenly became the new vogue.

Fresh, feminine yet assertive, sexual but intellectual, at once playful and serious these new greens led by Chanel 19 and followed, by Silences and Scherrer and ultimely by unisex Eau de Campagne reflected a decade in which the first steps toward female empowerment became a march.

The Dandy could have chosen any of these sprays to represent the era, but it is Wimbledon fortnight, the weather is sunny and even warm and Alliage makes me think of tennis and America in almost equal measure.

The great news is this ‘bottled summer sport’ is available and appropriate all year round as I concluded in my full review.

And by the way it took until 2007, but now, at Roland Garros and Wimbledon at least, men and women do enjoy the same status and cash rewards.

Game, Set and Match Ms Billy Jean King and Mrs Estee Lauder.

Until we play again…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy The Perfumed Dandy.

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen80s… Obsession by Calvin Klein Me, me, me… More, more, more

Ask yourself, what fragrance would Alex Forrest wear?

Recently I was reminded that the 1980s was not just the decade of our poular re-imagination: all bouffant hair and shoulder pads, aspirational cuisine and avaricious soap operas.

The early part of the decade was a fragile time, when Western Countries, wounded by misadventures at home and abroad became reflective, resentful at the failed promises of 1960s optimism and 1970s radicalism and were beset by to an extent self-induced recesions.

This painful first part of the epoch produced unusual fragrance hits: think of the sepia-scented antique porcelain perfume Anais Anais that occupied the dressing table tops of young girls everywhere.

But these grey, brittle, ready to break early years have been all but erased from our memory by the 1980s we choose to remember.

Dynasty, Working Girl, Wall Street, the real Wall Street and the actual new Masters of the Universe.

The creation of increasingly epic amounts of money by a decreasing number of of mainly men and women who wanted or needed to behave and be treated like men.

In this aura of extravagant consumption, in the midst of this intoxicating atmosphere of endless acquisition a collective cry and accompaying mantra could be heard:

“More, more, more…”

“Me, me, me…”

So was born the ‘more-iental’: a group of supercharged scents that took the classic prescription of Shalimar and doctored it with olfactory crack cocaine to produce an overpowering, ultimately corrupting aromatic experience that would soon have half the perfume buying public hooked and begging for more.

And the drug of choice?

Calvin Klein Obsession.

For a whole half generation of fragrance buying females nothing could come between them and their Calvin.

Who cared that it was ultimately a blunt instrument, low rent sort of a scent?

The perfume equivalent of an over inflated balloon, pumped full to bursting with a heady gaseous cocktail of ingredients from vetiver to civet, peaches to cedar trees, supposed ambergris to simulated soft fruit.

Who cared if it was loud and brash and unashamedly vulgar?

It made a point of making sure it was noticed and in this at least it unequivocally succeeded.

In fact even an anosmiac couldn’t fail to notice Obsession: the ultimate soft perm and Ellenet, bunny boiling, recreationally rude, red stilletoe shoe and white letherette dress bedecked psycho-scent of the decade.

History has not been kind to Calvin’s sensation.

Today, eighty years after its release, the tirelessly cheapened Tabu, the true original of the more-iental still smells like something I could imagine cleaning the floor of a high class bordello with.

Less than thirty years after it’s 1985 launch, reformulated Obsession resembles substances they put down drains that don’t quite keep the smell of decay away.

For in the end as the 1980s proved decandence leads inevitably to decay.

Fear not friends, tomorrow is another day, and there will be more and better American scents for us to share on our journey back through time.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen90s… White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor Catch a falling gem-studded star 

Why dear Dandy? I hear you ask.

Why would you choose such a throwback to another age to represent the 1990s?

(And please I do mean the perfume not the divine Dame Liz!)

Was this not the decade where aquatics took on all others and swept the board? The age of minimalism where less realy did mean less but sold a whole lot more?

Well, yes, yes, yes and YES!

The 1990s was all those things, but it was also the dawining of an age, the entrance of an epoch, the birth of a brave new world.

And that world dear readers was dominated by the Empire of the Celebuscent!

Little could the violet-eyed one have known whe she and ‘her people’ employed the creator of Lauder‘s iconic White Linen and YSL‘s Paris to create this hard, cut stone aldehyde that they would open the floodgates.

Ms Taylor probably thought she was joining the realms of the chosen few that had gone before her: Mae West at the time when the talkies were a novelty, Alan Deloin and Catherine Deneuve with appropriate Gallic dignity and  uber heiress Gloria Vanderbilt in lending her legend to what would become a line of fragrance.

Oh how wrong she was!

Look at us now a little over two decades later drowning in the dregs of the latest Britneys, Kylies and endless Kardashians (and hundreds more “stars” entirely unknown to anyone except their birth mothers).

So Elizabeth Taylor‘s White Diamonds earns its place as the American scent of the 1990s not for its staying sales power, nor indeed for being a still (just about) well-made, up and down white floral chypre with aldehydes in abundance,  but mainly for its status as the spray that showed the way one big chunk of the fragrance trade would go over the next twenty years.

Whilst Liz might have winced at some of her scented bedfellows these days, The Dandy is sure she would be more than a little overjoyed at her everlasting status as a trendsetter.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the 2000s… Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier Mushrooms and Magic

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The undoubted perfume movement of the new millennium has been the massive burgeoning in numbers of’niche’ scent makers.

This over-used term has come to mean as many different things as there are perfumistas, but the trend The Dandy finds most encouraging is the ascendency of artistic and artisanal perfume producers, operating in the main independently.

Often experimental in their approach and with an accent on essential oils and absolutes over massed produced aromachemicals these avant gardists of the olfactory world have undoubtedly pushed back the frontiers of what fragrance can smell and feel like.

No nation has been further to the fore of this movement than the United States and there are too many sublime American scentists out there to list (not least for risk of leaving out some greats).

But special attention and admiration must be paid to Mandy Aftel and Aftelier Perfumes.

Not only has Mandy produced wonderful pieces of art across various perfume platforms but she has written with insight, intelligence, wit and passion on her craft in a way that has inspired a whole generation of new aroma artists.

Choosing a scent from the extensive range is a near impossible task, but Cepes and Tuberose stands out for The Dandy as an idiosyncratic masterwork.

Meaty sweet mushrooms meet fleshy over ripe flowers in a carnal embrace that is splendidly earthy at the opening and morphs into an extraordinary splicing of library, forest and eccentric boudoir.

Truly original and quite remarkable.

This may not be a scent for everyone, but in a world of apparently endless choice (are there now more Angels in heaven or on the shelves of Thierry Mugler?) I, for one, am so glad that there are such creative options available.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the 20teens…Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford Nice, niche but not 

An American perfume with a faux French name made by a fake ‘niche perfume house’ owned by a multi-national in conjunction with a celebrity known more for fashion than fragrance who doesn’t do that much designing anymore but does make films…

If any perfumes more precisely encapsulate today’s topsy turvy world of scent better than those like Ombre de Hyacinth from one of Tom Ford‘s micro ranges produced in conjunction with Estee Lauder and some of the biggest names in the business then I don’t know which they are.

Apart from the olfactory history perspective though, this particular aroma does point to an often unmentioned fact

Out there amongst the endless ‘prive’ lines and not so exclusive ‘exclusif’ collections there are a wealth of well made, relatively widely available and, in this case at least, quite unusual fine fragrances.

While bone dry, high tech, galbanum and blue flower ice queens like this can slip beneath the corporate radar perhaps there is still hope for mainstream perfume even if it resides beyond the headline scents…

Many, many thanks to the estimable Ginzaintherain of The Black Narcissus for brining this bottle of grey mist anti-joy to The Dandy’s attention.

Backwards through time we go…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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To all American readers at home and abroad: Happy Independence Day 4th July 2013

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To everyone in the USA today and everyone from the USA eveywhere else:

Happy Independence Day!

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To mark this 4th of July, some special picks over the next few days as The Dandy celebrates seven decades since ‘the first great American perfume’.

Can you guess which it will be?

We’ll be starting at the end of the story in the teens and working backwards to the fifties (my goodness if only life would work like that!).

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So hold on to your hotdogs, hamburgers and California Rolls it’s going to be quite a ride.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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