The undoubted perfume movement of the new millennium has been the massive burgeoning in numbers of’niche’ scent makers.
This over-used term has come to mean as many different things as there are perfumistas, but the trend The Dandy finds most encouraging is the ascendency of artistic and artisanal perfume producers, operating in the main independently.
Often experimental in their approach and with an accent on essential oils and absolutes over massed produced aromachemicals these avant gardists of the olfactory world have undoubtedly pushed back the frontiers of what fragrance can smell and feel like.
No nation has been further to the fore of this movement than the United States and there are too many sublime American scentists out there to list (not least for risk of leaving out some greats).
But special attention and admiration must be paid to Mandy Aftel and Aftelier Perfumes.
Not only has Mandy produced wonderful pieces of art across various perfume platforms but she has written with insight, intelligence, wit and passion on her craft in a way that has inspired a whole generation of new aroma artists.
Choosing a scent from the extensive range is a near impossible task, but Cepes and Tuberose stands out for The Dandy as an idiosyncratic masterwork.
Meaty sweet mushrooms meet fleshy over ripe flowers in a carnal embrace that is splendidly earthy at the opening and morphs into an extraordinary splicing of library, forest and eccentric boudoir.
Truly original and quite remarkable.
This may not be a scent for everyone, but in a world of apparently endless choice (are there now more Angels in heaven or on the shelves of Thierry Mugler?) I, for one, am so glad that there are such creative options available.
The Perfumed Dandy.