Monthly Archives: July 2013

The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen80s… Obsession by Calvin Klein Me, me, me… More, more, more

Ask yourself, what fragrance would Alex Forrest wear?

Recently I was reminded that the 1980s was not just the decade of our poular re-imagination: all bouffant hair and shoulder pads, aspirational cuisine and avaricious soap operas.

The early part of the decade was a fragile time, when Western Countries, wounded by misadventures at home and abroad became reflective, resentful at the failed promises of 1960s optimism and 1970s radicalism and were beset by to an extent self-induced recesions.

This painful first part of the epoch produced unusual fragrance hits: think of the sepia-scented antique porcelain perfume Anais Anais that occupied the dressing table tops of young girls everywhere.

But these grey, brittle, ready to break early years have been all but erased from our memory by the 1980s we choose to remember.

Dynasty, Working Girl, Wall Street, the real Wall Street and the actual new Masters of the Universe.

The creation of increasingly epic amounts of money by a decreasing number of of mainly men and women who wanted or needed to behave and be treated like men.

In this aura of extravagant consumption, in the midst of this intoxicating atmosphere of endless acquisition a collective cry and accompaying mantra could be heard:

“More, more, more…”

“Me, me, me…”

So was born the ‘more-iental’: a group of supercharged scents that took the classic prescription of Shalimar and doctored it with olfactory crack cocaine to produce an overpowering, ultimately corrupting aromatic experience that would soon have half the perfume buying public hooked and begging for more.

And the drug of choice?

Calvin Klein Obsession.

For a whole half generation of fragrance buying females nothing could come between them and their Calvin.

Who cared that it was ultimately a blunt instrument, low rent sort of a scent?

The perfume equivalent of an over inflated balloon, pumped full to bursting with a heady gaseous cocktail of ingredients from vetiver to civet, peaches to cedar trees, supposed ambergris to simulated soft fruit.

Who cared if it was loud and brash and unashamedly vulgar?

It made a point of making sure it was noticed and in this at least it unequivocally succeeded.

In fact even an anosmiac couldn’t fail to notice Obsession: the ultimate soft perm and Ellenet, bunny boiling, recreationally rude, red stilletoe shoe and white letherette dress bedecked psycho-scent of the decade.

History has not been kind to Calvin’s sensation.

Today, eighty years after its release, the tirelessly cheapened Tabu, the true original of the more-iental still smells like something I could imagine cleaning the floor of a high class bordello with.

Less than thirty years after it’s 1985 launch, reformulated Obsession resembles substances they put down drains that don’t quite keep the smell of decay away.

For in the end as the 1980s proved decandence leads inevitably to decay.

Fear not friends, tomorrow is another day, and there will be more and better American scents for us to share on our journey back through time.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the nineteen90s… White Diamonds by Elizabeth Taylor Catch a falling gem-studded star 

Why dear Dandy? I hear you ask.

Why would you choose such a throwback to another age to represent the 1990s?

(And please I do mean the perfume not the divine Dame Liz!)

Was this not the decade where aquatics took on all others and swept the board? The age of minimalism where less realy did mean less but sold a whole lot more?

Well, yes, yes, yes and YES!

The 1990s was all those things, but it was also the dawining of an age, the entrance of an epoch, the birth of a brave new world.

And that world dear readers was dominated by the Empire of the Celebuscent!

Little could the violet-eyed one have known whe she and ‘her people’ employed the creator of Lauder‘s iconic White Linen and YSL‘s Paris to create this hard, cut stone aldehyde that they would open the floodgates.

Ms Taylor probably thought she was joining the realms of the chosen few that had gone before her: Mae West at the time when the talkies were a novelty, Alan Deloin and Catherine Deneuve with appropriate Gallic dignity and  uber heiress Gloria Vanderbilt in lending her legend to what would become a line of fragrance.

Oh how wrong she was!

Look at us now a little over two decades later drowning in the dregs of the latest Britneys, Kylies and endless Kardashians (and hundreds more “stars” entirely unknown to anyone except their birth mothers).

So Elizabeth Taylor‘s White Diamonds earns its place as the American scent of the 1990s not for its staying sales power, nor indeed for being a still (just about) well-made, up and down white floral chypre with aldehydes in abundance,  but mainly for its status as the spray that showed the way one big chunk of the fragrance trade would go over the next twenty years.

Whilst Liz might have winced at some of her scented bedfellows these days, The Dandy is sure she would be more than a little overjoyed at her everlasting status as a trendsetter.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the 2000s… Cepes and Tuberose by Aftelier Mushrooms and Magic

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The undoubted perfume movement of the new millennium has been the massive burgeoning in numbers of’niche’ scent makers.

This over-used term has come to mean as many different things as there are perfumistas, but the trend The Dandy finds most encouraging is the ascendency of artistic and artisanal perfume producers, operating in the main independently.

Often experimental in their approach and with an accent on essential oils and absolutes over massed produced aromachemicals these avant gardists of the olfactory world have undoubtedly pushed back the frontiers of what fragrance can smell and feel like.

No nation has been further to the fore of this movement than the United States and there are too many sublime American scentists out there to list (not least for risk of leaving out some greats).

But special attention and admiration must be paid to Mandy Aftel and Aftelier Perfumes.

Not only has Mandy produced wonderful pieces of art across various perfume platforms but she has written with insight, intelligence, wit and passion on her craft in a way that has inspired a whole generation of new aroma artists.

Choosing a scent from the extensive range is a near impossible task, but Cepes and Tuberose stands out for The Dandy as an idiosyncratic masterwork.

Meaty sweet mushrooms meet fleshy over ripe flowers in a carnal embrace that is splendidly earthy at the opening and morphs into an extraordinary splicing of library, forest and eccentric boudoir.

Truly original and quite remarkable.

This may not be a scent for everyone, but in a world of apparently endless choice (are there now more Angels in heaven or on the shelves of Thierry Mugler?) I, for one, am so glad that there are such creative options available.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s American Scents: the 20teens…Ombre de Hyacinth by Tom Ford Nice, niche but not 

An American perfume with a faux French name made by a fake ‘niche perfume house’ owned by a multi-national in conjunction with a celebrity known more for fashion than fragrance who doesn’t do that much designing anymore but does make films…

If any perfumes more precisely encapsulate today’s topsy turvy world of scent better than those like Ombre de Hyacinth from one of Tom Ford‘s micro ranges produced in conjunction with Estee Lauder and some of the biggest names in the business then I don’t know which they are.

Apart from the olfactory history perspective though, this particular aroma does point to an often unmentioned fact

Out there amongst the endless ‘prive’ lines and not so exclusive ‘exclusif’ collections there are a wealth of well made, relatively widely available and, in this case at least, quite unusual fine fragrances.

While bone dry, high tech, galbanum and blue flower ice queens like this can slip beneath the corporate radar perhaps there is still hope for mainstream perfume even if it resides beyond the headline scents…

Many, many thanks to the estimable Ginzaintherain of The Black Narcissus for brining this bottle of grey mist anti-joy to The Dandy’s attention.

Backwards through time we go…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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To all American readers at home and abroad: Happy Independence Day 4th July 2013

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To everyone in the USA today and everyone from the USA eveywhere else:

Happy Independence Day!

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To mark this 4th of July, some special picks over the next few days as The Dandy celebrates seven decades since ‘the first great American perfume’.

Can you guess which it will be?

We’ll be starting at the end of the story in the teens and working backwards to the fifties (my goodness if only life would work like that!).

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So hold on to your hotdogs, hamburgers and California Rolls it’s going to be quite a ride.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The green reaper… Vent Vert by Balmain The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter 

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“It will be mostly, well almost entirely green”

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As she spoke she looked defiantly passed, no, more accurately, through, the assembled women of the horticultural society.

A gasp as sharp and cool as the Sirocco itself emanated from their collective lipstick-ed mouths.

A rumble of wet whispers like a gathering storm just audible somewhere off on the Med:

“But it’s a flower show” “The defending champion is expected to outdo herself” “It must be a riot of colour and gaiety” “There must be blooms in abundance”

Finally, a committee member in a powder puff pink twinset, pearls and with lips pursed enough to crack a walnut cleared her throat and spoke.

“Is it to be only green?”

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“Pretty much.”

This time the defending champion spoke without raising her gaze from the perilous task she was engaged in: winding wild stinging nettles around a trellised column that marked one of the four corners of her sixteen metre square show garden.

“So no flowers at all?” the former treasurer persisted.

“There are green flowers you know. Certain kinds of wild iris for example… ” replied the gardener.

Then looking up and straight into her arch enemy’s eyes, “…and green carnations of course”.

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At this a slight embarrassed laugh rose from the crowd of women and those who understood explained to those who didn’t in terms of Oscar Wilde.

Undaunted, the elected member pressed her case uneasily though even she felt perhaps unwisely too:

No dash of colour? A bright red rose? A few of those amazing azure azaleas that drew such admiration last year?”

Silence.

“An aster perhaps?”, and then in desperation… “For heaven’s sake a dahlia or two wouldn’t kill you!”

But, the ex-chairwoman suddenly worriedly thought, perhaps the look fixed on her by her adversary now might just do for her.

The competition winner, rose to her feet, a full near six feet in fact, about five of them resplendent in a chartreuse satin-like jump suit.

“There could be a chrysanthemum…” she began calmly …”but I doubt it.”

“Mainly we will be showing leaf this year. Violet, orange, basil, sage, oh and some mosses as ground covering. I might run to a blue hyacinth out of season as surprise, but that depends on… well that depends…”

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“You may be interested to know I have some pins too, of the coniferous kind and some fruit….”

“You are aware there is a fruit and vegetable section…?” came the faltering interrogative.

“Limes, of course, quite inedible, exclusively for the colour” the green goddess continued without missing a beat, her eyes fixed again on some indiscernible and distant point above the coven’s heads.

“And lots of wild things, grasses, brambles, hawthorns, nettles….” She gestured to her handiwork.

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At this final explosion of unkempt matter the official felt almost faint…

“Nettles you say? Of course marks are awarded as much for skill in cultivation as mere arrangement!”

“But the lawn grass I shall be using is beautifully grown, manicured you might say. It makes wonderful material for the vertical elements of the display.”

A general silence descended.

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The one time general secretary was bowed and beaten, the other members of the collective too confused to consider further remonstration.

Then the towering Amazon in forest hues asserted that she “must be getting on with my work”.

They departed with the almost grateful air of a defeated army in retreat.

On the day the display did nothing to disappoint expectations.

It was exactly the densely packed abstract cube of foliage devoid of flowers that they had all feared and dreaded.

A melange of textures shapes and every shade of one single colour.

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All was green, save for a row of inexplicably sourced blue hyacinths that sat atop a seven foot wall of lawn.

And that was not all, for the ‘entered environment’ as the ‘author’ entitled her show garden, was suffused in a chill mist that emanated from behind a basil and sage sphere.

Not only was this cloud cold, but it smelt like distant polar ice.
In flaming July, the effect was magical.

Heat-wearied show goers tired of the gaudy confections of over inflated flora on display elsewhere queued patiently to get their moment out of the sun.

To relax and revive in a sanctuary of temporary serenity.
Though none dared stay too long as they found the cool soon became uncomfortable to the their warm-blooded sensibilities.

The judges, a sculptor from the local art school and an out of town landscape designer, were moved, and could not be emotionally moved on from their moments in the mist.

Full marks duly awarded, they presented the prize, an awful cut glass bowl and a comfortable amount of cash, with great aplomb and air kisses to the defending champion.

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She stood radiant in a floor length fern coloured kaftan her long hair blowing in the green breeze coming from her garden.

Vintage Vent Vert by Balmain is as close to iconoclastic feminism as fragrance gets.

On its release this searing, adventurous and uncompromising scent must have cut a swathe through not only smoked filled rooms but preconceptions of what a woman should smell like.

It is a bracing bolt from the green.

An amorphous, abstract yet geometric gesture in shamrock.

To describe and dissect the principle note or accord seems almost pointlessly reductive.

It contains grasses, nettles, citrus leaf and moss but is not solely defined by any of them.

Beyond this there is fruity acidity set off by a softer florals that appear and then disappear repeatedly in the heart.

Like the summer wind the name suggests.

Chief amongst these floral elements is a hyacinth that retains a degree of hauter, the slight detachment of that note smudged by a friendlier lighter muguet.

The base is another convergence of not only notes but tone, galbanum against amber, sandalwood and cedar, oakmoss and herbaceous border.

The effect is entrancing yet at the same time a little alarming.

Indeed, this is not a perfume with which the word comfortable can easily be associated.

It is too urgent, too agitated, has a point to make even to the point of a certain cold aggression.

I can’t help but adore it for its restless boundary-testing taut beauty.

If Vent Vert were a painting it would be a cubist Picasso from his lost green period.

Sadly, as for the latest iteration, complete with its golden golf ball lid, whilst it is far from a truly bad perfume, it drifts too much into the territory of easy musk-bought cleanliness and could be mistaken for good scalp-saving shampoo.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.
The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy mourns the departed… RIP dear IT

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It is with a heavy heart that The Dandy must announce that his old friend and close companion of many a moon his cherished computer has finally retired to the great big bucket shop in the sky!

After the appropriate period of mourning this morning (and some frantic attempts at file storing) I shall be on the hunt for a new Very Significant e-Object.

I therefore beseach you to bear with my as communications may be a little delayed or even erratic over the next day or two…

However, a death in the family is no excuse for forgoing fragrance and I shall be wearing the suitably funereal Chamade by Guerlain until further notice.

So, for the meantime, imagine if you will The Dandy bedecked in grief and galbanum in almost equal measure.

A vision in black on a grey suposed to be Summer’s day…

In memoriam.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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