Monthly Archives: May 2013

Crikey! It’s 20 scents more one never knew a gent could wear?! The Perfumed Dandy’s Library Catalogue #9

Dearests

My Word! It’s been something of a while since we had a peek inside the perfumed pages of The Dandy‘s back catalogue… indeed, some of you may have thought this folio had slipped my mind entirely.

What am I taking about? Well, where to begin…

Has The Perfumed Dandy mentioned that since starting out on his amazing adventure in the Wicked Wild West that is the World of Women’s Perfume he has amassed from dear readers an astonishing array of now over 550 suggestions of once forbidden ‘female fragrances’ that you consider fit for a gentleman to wear?

Well, The Dandy has most certainly mentioned it now!

Being ever one to share both the love and the wisdom, I have taken it upon myself to spread cognisance of these suggested scents far and wide on a semi regular (as it’s turned out) basis.

Such is the premise of our today’s start the week peek inside the The Perfume Dandy’s Library Catalogue.

What follows is the ninth installment of ’20 scents one never knew a man could wear’ that may tickle either your fancy or your funny bone…

If you would like to further the cause of one of the fragrances, getting it a step closer to the dizzying heights of The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade kindly respondez-vous to this post.

Alternatively if you believe you have the perfect perfume for The Dandy but can’t see it listed below simply visit ‘Suggest a new scent or recommend an old one’ to put the name forward.

Allons-y!!

1. Calvin Klein Eternity

It seems to have been around forever… is it worth a try?

2. Elizabeth Taylor Black Pearls

We’ve had the White Diamonds could it be time for the jewel-loving Dame Liz’s Black Pearls?

3. La Prairie Midnight Rain

Heavens… what a flacon! Can the fragrance be as bold?

4. Marks and Spencer Opulence

Where we Brits go to buy our “pants”… but would one ever shop there for perfume?

5. Yves Saint Laurent Cinema

Can a scent really capture the magic of the silver screen?

6. Ted Lapidus Envol

Should The Dandy get ‘envol-ved’ with this? Apologies…

7. Ted Lapidus Vu par Ted Lapidus

I don’t have a “vu” on this yet! Should I get one? Apologies…. again…

8. Pierre Balmain Vent Vert

How come so little love for this green dream machine? It’s a wet grass wonder, no?

9. Rochas Mystere

Time for the Mystere-y to end? Okay… shoot me… put us all out of this punning misery!

10. Yves Rocher Yria

No pun. No comment. I know nothing of this perfume… honest.

11. Dolce&Gabbana D&G Anthology L`Amoureux 6

The Dandy has so enjoyed what he’s tried from this series he would be beside himself with joy to sample another. Ahem.

12. Reminiscence Eau de Patchouli

Is what’s inside more attractive than the bottle?

13. Yves Saint Laurent La Collection Nu

The Dandy’s reviewed the rather lovely original. Is this a remix that’s worth giving a spin?

14. Hermes Rouge Hermes

Another classic that we’ve overlooked to date?

15. The Different Company Rose Poivree

One must admit to being something of a sucker for a spicy rose… would this fit the bill?

16. Gucci Guilty

Everything about this fills me with a feeling of foreboding… am I right to be afraid?

17. Givenchy Les Parfums Mythiques – Eau de Givenchy

These re-created classics from Givenchy have impressed so far… is this a possibility or a case of vintage only?

18. Sisley Soir de Lune

Sisley are the guardians of one of The Dandy’s Holy Grails: the ever-wonderful Eau de Campagne. Could this be anywhere near as good?

19. Chanel Les Exclusifs de Chanel Bel Respiro

Could a perfume named after Coco’s escape prove lucky for The Dandy?

20. Yves Saint Laurent Paris

We will always have Paris, but would we want to smell of it?

So there we have it.

Quite a mixed bag of fortunes, some old, some new, some classic… a few to make me blue.

Now it’s over to you!!

Now, I know I’m repeating myself but… If you would like to further the cause of one of the fragrances, getting it a step closer the dizzying heights of The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade kindly respondez-vous to this post.

Alternatively if you believe you have the perfect perfume for The Dandy but can’t see it listed above simply visit ‘Suggest a new scent or recommend an old one’ to put the name forward.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Fields of Fragrance The Perfumed Dandy’s Outside Spring Scents Part IV

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Dearest All

As you may recall, The Dandy had a dashed lovely day out in the Park a couple of Sundays ago, well The Gardens to be precise and Kensington Gardens at that.

Today the weather is rather fine once more, so I thought it an apposite time to match up some more aromas with those visually arresting vistas.

Thank you once again to all of you who suggested some scents that might go with my humble snaps.

Perhaps the wisest proposal was that such sublime scenes of nature required no man made smell to assist them. Too true.

However, The Dandy was ever one to throw caution to the wind and so here we have the fourth installment of my “Outside Scents”.

Before we set out… just a thought, but today would seem to me to be a mighty fine day to take a turn around the Park with mama or memories of mama, don’t you think?

1. White Narcissus

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The Dandy promises that he’s not on a commission from Caron!

But how, today of all days, could I leave off my list my most favourite daffodil perfume and my own Mother’s Day gift?

The full review is here for all to see. But to whet your appetites a little snippet….

Narcisse Noir is by turns a joyous evocation of youth, an erotic dance of courtship and a meditation on the meaning of the final curtain.”

“It is classical ballet made scent.”

2. Electric Green

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This amazing foliage is everywhere in London at the moment, gracing ornamental gardens and wild woodland corners alike.

Could any of you be an absolute dear and let The Dandy know what it might be?

Whatever the genus, it has me reflecting that it resembles a 1930s idea of how gardens of the future might be furnished.

In the same vein Futur by Robert Piguet is an antique aromatic vision of what space age plants might smell like.

As crisp and clear and green as a laser beam, it also has nothing to do with any shrub or herb I’ve ever rubbed up against.

It is an other-worldy odour, utterly abstract and absolutely alluring in a rather aloof ‘higher intelligence’ sort of a way.

I shan’t say much more though as a review is coming up in the not too distant Futur

3. Topiary

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It is of course still far too early for lavender to have come properly into flower.

So citing Andy Tauer‘s masterpiece 04: Reverie au Jardin may seem a little premature.

But in amongst the trimmed trees outside this Royal Palace The Dandy did in fact find his thoughts drifting off to day dreams and reveries.

In this pleasant half-woken state it came to me: this exquisite perfume has sandwiched between the purple pairing of lavender and iris a wonderfully shapely resinous coniferous note.

Indeed, taken as a whole the scent is just like sculpted nature, pure aromas are taken and with skill and care turned into a splendid example of olfactory art.

This is another one on which The Dandy has much more to say quite soon…

4. Round Pond

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Carven‘s somewhat lost wonder Ma Griffe causes one to think always of water.

Not that it is an aquatic scent at all, there’s nothing so literal about the connection.

Instead, it has an aura of amorphous expansiveness about it that that H2O has too.

Sometimes as I wrote in my review of the fragrance, this eternal quality can hint at sadness…

“Ma Griffe is entirely sympathetic and strangely attractive in a solitary way”.

5. More Leaves

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In a city as incessantly noisy as this one, our parks provide rare and welcome places of peace.

Silences by Jacomo is a scent that sets the scene quiet industriousness.

With its muguet yielding to forest glade green, it brings with it a sense of the sought for solitary that can create a oasis of calm in even the most turbulent of urban scenes.

In colder times, The Dandy‘s review mused on the mute quality of snow and the first frozen expressions of spring.

Now I find this perfume is the perfect accompaniment to the arboreal reawakenings of the season.

So, there we have the fourth tranche of scents following on from my photographs of a couple of weekends ago.

There are still five fragrant thoughts to match to photographs and I shall be sure to send them through this week!!

In the meantime, if you’d like to take a peek, why not spend a moment perusing the complete album of The Perfumed Dandy’s Sunday In The Park.

Any additional suggestions as to scents would be gratefully received.

Once again Happy Mother’s Day!!

Do at least consider a stroll, won’t you?

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The eternal dance… Narcisse Noir by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Happy Mother’s Day!! Just the other day I proffered a list of scented suggestions for suitable gifts for this most important of days. Today a reminder of the aroma I gave my own dear mater… enjoy!

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

Powdered and primped, feeling awkward and almost pimped, a life lived perpetually on point.

How happily she had left the stage for the last time, accepting the applause, the acclaim and the one final bouquet. Daffodils for her mother’s St David, African Orange Blossom in lieu of Papa’s Happy Valley crew who couldn’t make in time from Kenya to see her.

She curtseyed in pain as she always had, but this time despite bleeding feet, this time her smile broke free of its normal circuit of restraint and coursed right across her face.

No more Cinderellas and Nutcrackers, no more Swans, no more elegance on the surface and turmoil below the water line.

She breathes in deeply, drinks in freedom and drunk on air throws caution and her flowers to the wind.

Running for the wings she neglects to stop, fails to return, lets down her audience by succeeding in…

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Go spin… Anthologie: 10: Roue de la Fortune by Dolce&Gabbana The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Crystal Ball

If it hadn’t have been for that damned clairvoyant this whole calamity could easily have been averted.

She couldn’t help but turn the words over and over in her head as she stood wilting like a spring flower under the bright studio lights.

She was fashion, sometimes beauty, occasionally timepieces.

She was not this.

Hitherto, she had been emphatically cat walk not cat call.

No more it would seem.

The work had dried up, her looks were “very yesterday” her decision not to opt for the knife “very brave”.

She was “too associated with white floral prints and billowing sleeves”.

In short she was “past her prime”.

Even so, when her agent called offering her a game show she had laughed.

“Think of the bottom line” he had uncharacteristically snapped.

She giggled and remembered out loud Catherine Deneuve’s advice that at a certain age a woman “can have the bottom or the face but not both”.

The ten percenter laughed too and suggested that she and her “vast ass” should meet him for drinks.

She knew that he intended to get her a little drunk and under ever so gentle duress get her to sign.

She knew that saving surgery and even more stringent diets than she had gotten used to in over twenty years of modelling she had no choice.

After all she wanted to keep the house.

So over pink pepper and pineapple bellinis she let him persuade her that it was all in her best interest.

He even invoked the turn of a tarot card, he was in his spare time a camply inept mystic, to convince her of the conviviality of the career move.

“Look” he squealed “it’s number 10. La Roue de la Fortune. That settles it. It’s fate!”

The money was good, the people fun, she would be a co-host and not a “dolly bird”, they would do everything to make the experience as painless as possible.

All of it, apart from how good the money was, was lies.

In reality, here she was, stood next that enormous day glow gargoyle version of a roulette wheel, grinning and gawping and spinning the thing for hours on end a fixed smile on her face and scarcely a word emerging from her lips.

They were taping the fourteenth episode that day, on their fourth audience, before her the thirty second and thirty third contestants.

She had barely sat down.

She felt and was sure she smelt very, very tired indeed.

To make matters worse she was over made up in the television manner to the point that had she strayed into daylight a stranger could have mistaken her for a psychopathic clown.

The theatrical slap they might as well have applied with a trowel smelt cotton candy cheap and her bouffed and coiffed hair resembled nothing more than a vast portion of the same spun sugar.

Still she was faultlessly polite to the all Allens from Arkansas, the DeeDees from Dallas and the Concepcions from Southern California.

She laughed at their over rehearsed ad libs, cheered their triumphs and commiserated their catastrophes resulting from the whim of the wheel or the paucity of their own general knowledge.

She even tolerated the hairspray astringent smell of the lacquer and the saccharine makeup that was even worse on them than on her.

She had her revenge.

When forced to fondle food processors masquerading as precious prizes she balked visibly.

When told to get excited about dinghies with outboard motors attached she always managed somehow to convey her utter disdain.

She arched one eyebrow too high or smiled a little too forcefully so that it came across to the camera as a snarl.

She contorted her remaining curves into shapes that would seem absurd to the audience at home.

If she was going to be made a circus freak, she might as well do it herself and with a sense of fun and a streak of satire.

Of course she knew there was neither the time nor the money for retakes: her little cabaret of discontentment would be played out in homes across the United States every afternoon for the next six months.

It was too late to get a name as big as her for the rest of that season, every ex Miss America so it seemed was already under contract.

They didn’t want her back. Not under any circumstances.

Why should she care? Her agent had after all signed her for three years, no break clause.

She would happily get paid to stay home and tend her irises.

She would be delighted never again to wield that wheel of misfortune.

Dolce&Gabbana’s truly unfortunate Anthologie: 10: Roue de la Fortune is a tackily slick daytime television sort of a scent.

As a perfume it is perfectly undesirable.

Too sweet, too brash, too silly in its cynical attempt to ride then current trends.

It is a self-embarrassing effort to capture a lucrative demographic with a half-hearted stab at white floral with cotton candy and poorly composed patchouli.

It gives off the desperate smell of something that hopes it will scrape through by association with a big name.

Even sadder, somewhere under the ladlefuls of syrup applied to the scent (the notes rather evasively refer only to benzoin) one senses there might actually have been an alluring aroma here once.

It is a fallen top model reduced to syndicated game shows to earn a living: all soft perms, soft focus and sickly maquillage.

Everything about it is sincere only in being utterly synthetic.

As for its inclusion in a nominally limited edition ‘Anthologie’ range?

It possesses all the exclusivity of a Wal-Mart discount bin.

Which, frankly, is where it deserves to be.

On the other hand, no one, man or woman, deserves it.

This is  too bad to be even booby prize.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s Happy Mothering Sunday Supplement

‘Twas Mothering Sunday two months ago here in Blighty… but I thought these suggestions might be of use to my American friends on the hunt for perfumed presents this weekend…

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

On the occasion of of Mothering Sunday, also known as Mother’s Day, here in the United Kingdom, The Perfume Dandy tips his hat and and presents a bouquet of flowers to mothers, grandmothers matriarchs everywhere.

Hurrah for mamas!!

The tradition in this part of the world derives from the practice of Christians returning to their mother church on the second Sunday in lent and combining the pilgrimage with a visit home to celebrate the day with their own mater.

Today as with Mothers Days in other parts of the world the occasion is marked with flowers, special meals and the giving of gifts…

All of which leads me to 10 scented last minute suggestions for sons and daughters who have perhaps mislaid their presents home… the shops here in London open at midday, so you better get your skates on!

1. The Earth Mother: Eau de Campagne by…

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Come fly with me… Jardins de Bagatelle by Guerlain The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

One blast on the burner and with a bright blue flame the balloon begins to rise.

There is the faintest chemical fragrance as liquid fuel gasifies before being turned almost instantly to fire.

The ascending heat mixes with sunlight and suddenly unobstructed views.

This is the very scent and sense of space.

Below the ground becomes an imperfect patchwork.

Its lawns of late April violets are purple squares.

Yellow flowers that from this distance seem but cannot be narcissi glimmer like cloth of gold.

Having left behind the highest flying bees at one hundred feet, you notice pollen still trails in the air on the very edge of invisibility.

You imagine an aerial fantasia of flowers, garlands of jasmine and tuberose suspended from lotus blossom clouds.

Looking down at the heart of the park a little way from the chateau, the shape of the rose gardens can only now be perceived in their true purpose.

Every bed is a petal and the dozen or so varieties each in their own divan together form a magnificent corolla.

This is the masterly centrepiece, rendered in damask silks and satins, woven onto nature’s quilt.

From here a filigree of white flowers made silver by separation from the eye radiate outward across the estate’s expanse.

Though surrounded by a near surfeit of air, the day is almost entirely without a breeze.

You remain, hanging on a nothing, in a moment apparently eternal, yourself in essence weightless.

Time passes.

The moment to descend arrives and for the first time you become aware of the cradle that contains you and the ground entreating your return.

On landing, the basket grazes the grass, releasing a greenness and some of its own wicker woodiness.

The Earth embraces you as you tumble out of your temporary travels.

Standing, shaking the dust free, you stare above at where you were.

Stretching arms skyward, you remember the atmosphere filled with unseen bouquets.

All now out of reach.

Until the next time.

Jardins de Bagatelle is human flight made fragrance.

With industry and engineering it raises the floral perfume above its normal terrestrial terrain.

True, some will not like the fact that to be transported thus requires propane, metal moving parts and an indelicate amount of heat.

So be it. To experience the sensation of being suspended as though on a floral cloud, peering down on manicured parkland, this seems a very small price to pay.

Aldehydes unquestionably own the opening.

A little softened by violet they provide the massive lift required to raise the burgeoning flower stuffed envelope of a scent off the ground.

Soon enough it becomes apparent that our basket’s cargo is primarily of white flowers, jasmine and tuberose principally, though there is blossom too and to my nose narcisse and not a little rose.

A complex and highly wrought affair there is an earthiness underneath,

A little vetiver and fir here perhaps, something that hints a return to the ground will always be necessary.

The overall effect is one of a rather beautiful but very much last-century-moderne bouquet wrapped in sparkling cellophane.

It is unfathomably fashionable to dislike this fragrance.

In truth it is an invention out of its time: a hot balloon in an age of jet liners and supersonic aeroplanes.

So much the better for it.

Let others be squashed into their sausage shaped and winged sardine cans.

I will always opt to fly open air.

There can be no more elegant means to ascend florally up, up and away.

On the last occasion I checked balloon flights were available to all, but few gentlemen these days seem to have the Montgolfiers’ courage.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Sea, sun and skin…. Eau des Merveilles by Hermes The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

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The scent of skin after a day sea swimming.

Warm salt water dried to crystals and then in turn smoothed away with lotions of amber and orange oil.

Departing hot sands in wild grass espadrilles you scale high dunes, where ocean’s air is freest and head for coniferous forest beyond.

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Amongst cedars and firs you find yourself jumping pools of light, cascading waterfalls of illumination from the incomplete canopy above.

You break a peppery sweat and stop to recall waves breaking on the shore, the sigh of sand as water withdraws and crackling salt, shimmering in sunlight.

So the sea bids you to return, to accept her effervescent embrace, relinquish the amber and the orange oil to her charms, the waxing and the waning of her watery arms.

At ocean’s reach, you wait a moment, regard the indeterminate horizon, then, on an instant dive and enter the cool blue immensity.

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Eau de Merveilles is a minor miracle of a fragrance.

What it may lack in troubling depths and dark complexity it more than makes up for in its spare and precise composition.

This perfume exceeds the mere reminiscence of a beach in high summer, this is sand, and sun and sea and mainly salt.

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There are some tones of sweetness too, of amber and orange citrus.

There’s swathe of forest, the needles of towering conifers, their bark, their resins and the wild grasses that the trees protect then give way to on the exposed dunes.

After the initial fruit of the opening, it must be admitted that the fragrance dries down into a fairly linear scent.

But then aren’t the best beach days seemingly constant and unending too?

Oh, and we most beside ourselves beside the seaside when with the best of friends?

Well, they can all – men and women – come along to this elegant party.

You know, I think I may have been just a little affected by all that sunshine and seaside!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Oh I do like to be beside the seaside…! The Perfumed Dandy’s Picture Postcards

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Dear Sunseekers

I promised some of you a snap of some sandcastles… so here it is!

I’ve also popped in a few splendid scenes from the British seaside.

From the brilliant Brixham in Devon to be precise…

Beach and Breakwater

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Marina

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The Village

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A Tall Ship

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From The Wooded Cliffs

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A Cove

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Bluebells in The Woods

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Into The Water

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Beach Huts

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Driftwood

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Devon Ice Cream

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Day’s End

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No scented suggestions from The Dandy on this occasion, but if you have any perfumed proposals, they would be most welcome.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The rites of Spring… Diorissimo by Dior The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

It’s been the May Day Holiday this weekend and today here in Britain. The weather has changed and Spring is very much in full season. No perfume does as well in these conditions it seems to The Dandy as Diorissimo!

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

It was an idea of nature and not the thing itself she adored.

She had no time for mud and weather, wild animals and running amok.

Her idea was of an idealised au naturelle where plants were perfected into decorative stage set props and trees became perfumed bit part players.

A world where she could glide gracefully through scented air on a swing suspended from an invisible branch, her perpetual motion made possible by a silent servant glimmering on the edge of ghostliness.

How natural then that she should make her way each day in her extended late lunch hour to a room on Manchester Square, placing herself safely within walls hung with pastel silks and paintings.

There, surrounded by marquetry and enamelled secretaires, just footsteps away from cabinees of fine Sevres, she contemplated copious swirls of peach pink damask, petticoats and lace.

She fancied herself in a…

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The morning after… Eau de Cologne Imperiale by Guerlain The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Last night at the fancy dress ball you were so sure he was a woman.

Amongst all the counterfeit countesses and rugby players passing themselves off as runaway Romanov nieces, it was he alone who had you convinced he was a her.

This Empress Eugenie, so you thought, was the one exquisite item that had come as her own sex.

Set apart from all the debutantes dressed as racing car drivers and retired generals, ‘she’ alone, you foolishly swooned, had elected to don a dress.

You went so far as to ignore the Seville and bitter orange cologne ‘she’ wore and concentrated instead on the delicate dancer’s arms.

Focussed on the slight, slightly coquettish tilt of the head that sent long blond hair to one side and on the skin with the sheen you spent the evening imagining was smooth and soft to the touch.

The same skin you see now across his boy’s flat chest as he is poised to take a dive into the blue of the swimming pool.

A splash. Then a slender shadow the colour of lavender makes its way underwater to where you are wading just out of your depth.

He emerges right next to you, smiles with those same imperiously perfect teeth and brushes the same blond hair, now slick with water, out of his eyes.

Clear, bright, unembarrassed eyes that look straight at and in to you.

You catch the faintest remnant of that citrus smell and redden at the recollection of what you rather had not passed between you.

With a laugh he disappears into the depths again.

You struggle to the side and pull yourself clear of the water, the heat of shame cooled to goose pimples on your flesh by late Spring’s breezes.

You hear his laughter behind you and then some words in that courtly high-pitched French you listened to all last night.

Walking away towards the trees where you can change out of sight, you turn to look back.

He is gone.

You study the group of people by the water’s edge but cannot pick his face out amongst them.

You find yourself breathing deeply and wondering whether this short meeting is all you will ever see of him.

You wonder whether this is what you want.

Eau de Cologne Imperiale is Guerlain at its most gamine.

It is a fragrance as fleeting as the androgynous beauty of youth.

It may have seen more than one hundred and fifty years in production, but on the skin it is the matter of a mere hour or two at most.

This is a sliver of citrus history, an elusive and strangely sensual scent that one must allow to slip through one’s fingers, time and time again.

Taken together the notes are akin to a nursery rhyme in their simplicity: oranges and lemons, bergamot, neroli, lavender, some cedar and a little sweetness from the tonka bean.

The effect is at once refreshing and regal, partly from the perfume, partly one supposes from the idea of partaking in a piece of the past.

Eau de Cologne Imperiale is as much a ritual as a fragrance, like bathing, its effects are ephemeral yet enlivening.

There is no better way to free up body and mind for the complexities of the day ahead.

It seems absurd to talk of men and women so far as this perfume is concerned, it was made for both an Empress and her Emperor.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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