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The Perfumed Baker’s dozen: Thirteen roses for anyone feeling unlucky in love 

Last year, for those unlucky in love I made a suggestion of a few roses one might buy oneself should the world not have furnished one with sufficient flowers on St Valentine’s Day. This year, I reblog that same list by way of prophylaxis: why not grab yourself a bloom today just in case someone fails to do the honourable thing tomorrow?!? You deserve it after all!

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

If a Dandy can’t love himself who the devil’s going to love a Dandy?

Well, so say I.

And yet, as souls sleep in the East, the public houses of London call last orders and people all over the Americas prepare for home time there will be Dandies and Dandiladies who are unhappy, unsatisfied and frankly insatiable.

But why? I hear you cry.

Well, dear fiends, they have been unlucky in love.

They may be with many or entirely without lovers. Indeed they may enjoy lovers and love of the highest order. That is not the kernel of their disappointment. They are be-fretted Dearhearts for they have not had their olfactory needs met.

Their noses have been ignominiously ignored. Or, worse still insulted with silly low grade scents.

Fear not forThe Perfumed Dandyis on hand with a hastily assembled receipt for aromatically induced happiness. What follows is a…

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Hollywood Roses: Vickie, Betty and… L’Interdit by Givenchy The Perfumed Dandy’s Happy Birthday Festival of Flowers

Annex - Hopper, Hedda_01_1

Today, dear friends, we celebrate four roses:

Three human, one scent. all fragrant!

The first is photographed above.

This is her public image (borrowed or real we cannot say).

She is the simply too beguiling Vickie Lester purveyor of archival and antique images from the silver screen machine at her internet emporium the equally Beguiling Hollywood.

Do take a peek there we promise it’s most awfully good.

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Quite apart from the magnificence of her web domain, we celebrate Ms Lester’s upcoming publication of her work of fiction…

It’s In His Kiss

…many pages of which have been previewed to our delight on said wonderful site.

Oh yes, and Vickie’s celebrating a birthday too, so The Dandy does hope she’s settling down to tea and cakes (plural) just about now!.

As those of you who are regulars here will know, it’s not often that The Dandy takes a moment to highlight an un-perfumed personality. But really Ms Lester (and her real life self) are truly something special.

A rose the midst of the thorny business that calls itself show!

Which brings us to my second pick:

Betty White.

Why? Why not!?!

After all, how many people born before Chanel No 5 was publicly available still have a flourishing career?

How many stars have been so versatile, from presenting six hour live television shows six days a week to immortalising women of an age previously almost invisible in film and tv?

For being an icon of self-effacing, self-amused, determined dignity she’s an eternal Rose, but let’s not forget for nearly twenty years previous she was, with Lorne Greene in tow, the television queen of Pasadena’s Rose Parade too:

But where’s the scent today Mr Dandy dear?

I hear you holler.

Stop right now, that kind of screaming is strictly…

For it is the perfume that Hubert Givenchy de Givenchy wanted to name after his muse and the world’s favourite gamine star but was forbidden by Audrey Hepburn from doing so, thus giving the fragrance its monicker.

A floral aldehyde starting crisply: metallic as the snap fast of a handbag clasp, a seque into fruit cocktail rose made up with iris powder, a dry down into sweet sandalwood, talcum musk and the merest hint of grass and salt and earth.

L’Interdit is the very epitome of middle last century chic.

Refined, reserved, starched: a work of crafted artifice.

Like Hepburn in Hubert by Avedon.

Roses all.

Perfumed and perfectly delectable.

Happy Birthday our very own Hedda!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Golden hued memories… Rose Velours by Van Cleef & Arpels The Perfumed Dandy’s Festival of Roses

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A moment from late summer.

A morning, sunny, dew-sodden.

Petals start to fall a second time

Preserved, but not pickled in aspic,

Fossilised in honey instead.

The ripeness of the flower as full as fruit

Its odour, jam-rich, fills the air

Makes it viscous

Sets lovers swimming in

A sea of gelatinous, velvet, joy.

Fronds like fine fabrics fragrance

This farewell symphony.

Soon all that will remain:

A few scattered natural confetti

Collected by her hands and crystalised

In jars, placed on high shelves,

For February comfort.

Rose Velours from the Collection Extraordinaire by Van Cleef and Arpels belongs to a distinguished sub category of floral perfumes: the rose preserves.

If other sweet rose scents are budget label jams, this is finest Fortnum & Mason floral confiture.

Here cheap refined sugar is replaced with violet infused honey, iris introduces a sweet caramelised vegetal note, all is amplified and extended by benzoin and the much-maligned, but in this instance well-used, ambroxan.

Eventually, the rose powders and a woodiness intrudes to lend a sweet dusty antique shop quality to the late dry down.

For the most part though this linear fragrance is exquisite conserve served with silver spoons and eaten straight.

A rare sweet treat, probably best kept for infrequent indulgences.

Like bad weather, February and Tuesdays…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Gods’ winged messenger… Kelly Caleche by Hermes The Perfumed Dandy

A speedy rose-themed reblog from rainy Britain… a tale of young love amongst the petals and the hay!

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

“Those horses are so spoilt I swear they sleep on straw strewn with rose petals”.

With an equine huff of a laugh, he rears his head back and raises a riding crop from aside his muscular calf to tap a glowing forehead.

He breaks a large-toothed smile and with a click of the heals of his long brown leather riding boots turns to leave.

A self-conscious flick of the head to show off his golden mane to its best effect and he is gone.

He smells of early Summer roses, thoroughbreds and animal hides.

He smells exactly as you do.

He had come, as a messenger from “The Gods”: the judges.

Venerated men and women, with scores of Olympian accolades between them, in whose hands your equestrian fate now resides.

He came to ready you for the off and remind you of “The Immortals” marking schemes.

You reflect on how…

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When Cupid’s scented bow first shot true… The Perfumed Dandy’s Weekend Forum 

Cassanovas and Cleopatras

It is the week for lovers!!!

And are we not basking in a veritable downpour of rose petals by way of celebration?

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Therefore for this convention of our forum I invite you to cast your mind back to when a scent first caught your eye, your nose, drew you in, stole your heart, your purse, your life….

What was your first fragrant love and when did you fall into this initial aromatic amour?

As many details as you can possibly spare please….

The Dandy does, of course, promise to bear all in due course too!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s Scent Today…… Ivoire de Balmain

As big as hair that’s been well and truly Dynasty styled.

A scent backcombed with aldehydes and lacquered with chamomile.

Oakmoss and other accords, some as cold as the war then raging, others hot like carnation pepper or silly spicy with nutmeg and apple pie cinnamon.

A complex creation so typical of the age that gave birth to it…

Can it still perform perfume pirouettes and astound with scented stag leaps through the air?

Following its selection by your good selves in yesterday’s snap vote, The Perfumed Dandy will now take a few days to deliberate and cogitate the merits and mischiefs of this fragrance fair or foul and will, in due course, provide his report on relations with the new discovery by means of a scented letter.

Another opportunity to place a new perfume on The Dandy‘s skin will arise with the next instalment of The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade.

In the meantime if you would like to thrust forward a fragrance for future fame on The Hit Parade simply visit ‘Suggest and old scent or recommend a new one’ and leave your suggestion there.

Have an especially fragrant day.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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She knows her own mind… Knowing by Estee Lauder The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

A modern and modernist rose, with thorns, and a robust constitution too… just the thing to stand up to the sort of climate we’re enjoying in some parts of the world! Hope you’re enjoying the bouquet…

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

Being used to having all matter of things pretty much all her own way in the office, she wasn’t about to let a silly thing like March frosts come between her and her early blooming roses.

Of course she had space neither for a hothouse nor a conservatory, in fact she had no outside space at all.

But there was her building’s stairwell: that would do well enough, glazed as it was all the way up in its austere modernist symmetry.

Surely even her tedious co-operative co-members couldn’t object to being cajoled into allowing a little natural beauty into the clear lines and white space of their shared world, she decided.

The man at the flower store had advised a miniature variety would be best. She told him, a jovial, handsome but small framed man of Greek extraction, that she didn’t want anything ‘squat squatting on my steps’.

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Ostrich feathers flying… Midnight Oud by Juliette Has A Gun The Perfumed Dandy’s Rose Scented Letter

Back in what she fancifully, but belligerently calls her boudoir, she unhooks her suspenders.

Throws the pair of blood splattered silks over the back of a San Francisco French chair, unwinds her stays, releases her bodice, allows her legs to escape from clouds of petticoats and then, only then, undoes her holster.

The colt is oily, smoky, sweaty.

Animal.

All despite the mother of pearl handle she has had put on it.

Under the unlocked door she hears the bar room brawl she has left behind downstairs begin to die.

She killed it with a shot straight through the ceiling and into the sky.

Then she fled the scene: left her spot empty on the stage.

She will sing while they swig whisky, play cards, ogle the girls and spit tobacco. But she will not exercise her lungs while they are throwing punches.

They protested. Howled for their princesses’ return. One pretender grabbed at her. She kicked him.

He spat out a tooth and some ‘Kensington Gore’.

That was her mother’s name for blood. Well, all unwanted bodily effusions.

‘Kensington Gore’. A street name back in London, so she thought, somewhere fancy, by where the Great Exhibition was.

She died on the boat. Her mother. No joke, you know, in steerage.

Next to the gun on her ‘chateau dresser’, another piece of City on the Bay faux Frenchery, is her most precious Gallic frippery, though this one is the real deal.

Perfume straight from Paris.

Squeezing the puffer between her hard working hands she elicits a whole atmosphere’s worth of aroma to surround herself with.

The roses she can remember, just, from a childhood evading coppers in Covent Garden. Her mother amongst the flower girls a woman with something else entirely to sell.

Above it is another odour that she does not know but recognises as expensive.

The salesman says its saffron, he might be lying. She doesn’t honestly care.

When she wears her fine French fragrance she feels as though she’s singing arias in an Opera House.

Truly, she knows its two dime melodies she murders for the drunken cowhands out for a handful of flesh, a skinful of liquor and fight that are her crowd.

If the wind changes she can even smell them above her expensive scent.

They are her tragedy and her making.

Oh, one knows, we are just so over oud.

And oud with rose? Yawn. Patchouli too? The eyes do droop.

Even a generous handful of saffron does little to awaken.

Beaver, musk and amber?

Okay, so there’s a flicker.

But, I’ve news…

Midnight Oud by Juliette Has A Gun is the Ethel Merman of Rose Oud Aromas.

This is an undisputed Broadway belter of a perfume that owes its roots to rougher days when scents had to practically scream to make themselves heard.

Now, to be fair that this is no high-pitched affair.

Quite the contrary, like the Wild-West-saloon-turned-Vaudeville star of latter years of which this is the undoubted olfactory equivalent the tone is low, smoky, if not rich then razor-blade-gargling husky.

At the opening we get the smallest burst of citrus, a good spoonful of saffron and immediately the first rose.

Then within seconds the oud arrives.

To my mind this is a smoked, slightly metallic and very animalic oud. It is improved no end by and adopts many characteristics of the notes around it. Both the aforementioned and a second sweeter Moroccan rose, a dark oily patchouli, definite glandular animalics and salt and pepper supplied by geranium and amber.

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At heart this is a rich, voluptuous, décolletage-on-display rose perfume wrapped up in a scaffolding oud and saffron bodice, the bloom bosom always desperate to escape that which holds it in.

I’ve heard it called a rock and roll scent. I’d say it was more music hall.

More ‘a little of what you fancy does you good’, or, to be frank, rather too much of what you thought you didn’t fancy is very good.

Chaotic, aggressive, camp and rather uncontrolled this is a rose off the rails!

Juliette May Well Have A Gun and she would seem to be as equally pleased to see girls and boys with friend in tow.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Think… Pretty in Pink by Pell Wall Perfumes The Perfumed Dandy’s Festival of Roses Part I

Starting with a lily, not in the least funereal but as innocent as lace trim on a summer linen dress, this is a sweet contrivance of a scent: a fugue on youth’s pleasures made fragrant.

In that floral garland at the top is a little citrus, a touch of menthol, the kind of complex smell that emanates from a rose cultivated for aroma over appearance.

In its botanical veracity this perfume may appear simple, but these antique roses rarely are straightforward, and in that apparent single flower resides jasmine, bitter orange flower and not a little violet too. IMG_20130627_174033

Then things open out in a subtle but entrancing way.

A dolls house icing sugar snow storm comprised of the unsweet sweet powder that dusts the best Turkish delight. Then on an instant a teenage girl at the cusp of adulthood swirls on an English lawn, her skirt and arms trail across a bush of prize roses.

They give their scent involuntarily to her burgeoning beauty.

All of this. All of this, but in a hush.

A quiet perfume the whole while this one. Rose flavoured ice cream and deluxe antique scented moisturiser are equal partners in the next part of the performance; a little vanilla here, some sandalwood and clean musk there.

This phase, with subtle well-mannered florals, like a polite tea fete in the background, lingers longest, before drying down to a pleasant almost old-fashioned gentlemanly shaving soap smell. Pretty In Pink, conjures with olfactory accords that are the equivalent of the Edwardian images familiar from Forster’s novels made film and television costume dramas.

That is not to say that this is an old-fashioned perfume, not at all, for every generation re-invents the past in its own image.

It is a delicate portrait of what it feels to be young and free and rather innocent and at the start of an awfully big adventure.

A perfect gift for a first sweetheart. Pell Wall Perfumes is a very small British producer, so small in fact that some of the petals for this perfume are picked in the perfumer’s own Shropshire garden.

I have highlighted their very fine fragrances before I do so again without hesitation.

British Garden Partywhat an excellent way to start the festivities!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Let the blooming good times begin… The Perfumed Dandy’s Festival of Roses

IMG_20130627_182421 Fairest Flower Tops

I make no apologies or bones about it…

I am The Dandy and I reserve my right to like, nay adore a rose if I wish to, and I do!

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Therefore, between now and St Valentine’s Day I declare a minor festival or Fetes des Roses!

Over the next eight days I shall be picking out some favourite fragrances that bare a trace of the Queen of Flowers for slither-like slight reviews.

I shall also be posting a few long-overdue scented letters that bear the aroma of these most opulent corollas.

And, if you crave my indulgence, I will also re-post a few of my favourite musings on perfumes with that certain Elizabethan something.

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Let the merriment commence on the morrow!!!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy. The Perfumed Dandy

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