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The Perfumed Dandy’s Scent Today…… Paris by Yves Saint Laurent

Boulevards, brasseries, bois, des arts, boutiques…

That seemingly inescapable erection.

How could one hope to capture a city as erotic, stylish, cultured and sadistic in a simple scent?

Say it with flowers!

That seems to have been Saint Laurent’s response: a rose large enough to fill the Louvre attended to by practically every other bloom in creation.

Does it, can it, work!?!

Following its selection by your good selves in yesterday’s snap vote, The Perfumed Dandy will now take a few days to deliberate and cogitate the merits and mischiefs of this fragrance fair or foul and will, in due course, provide his report on relations with the new discovery by means of a scented letter.

Another opportunity to place a new perfume on The Dandy‘s skin will arise with the next instalment of The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade.

In the meantime if you would like to thrust forward a fragrance for future fame on The Hit Parade simply visit ‘Suggest and old scent or recommend a new one’ and leave your suggestion there.

Have an especially fragrant day.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The love that dare not speak its name… The Perfumed Dandy’s Fragrant Forum

Friends, Fragrance Fiends, Amatores

With all this babble, mainly I know from yours truly, of roses, romance, St Valentine’s Day and all matters of the heart, it set The Dandy thinking…

Across the various blogs, fora, chat rooms, sites and other seedy joints where ‘scent heads’ hang out, there is much talk of concealment, of keeping our infatuation (as some see it) with fragrance hidden from public view.

It’s almost as though some of us are afraid our amour for all things aromatic might be met with distaste, disapproval, even our disavowal by those around us?

Is it really such a seriously bad thing to love a good scent?

So this week’s question…

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Is perfume your secret passion?

Or perhaps you will burst my bubble, tell me today we’re all out and proud about the pongy stuff: founder members of Perfume Pride…

Either way, do tell…

Especially if you never have before!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Petroleum and peach schnapps… Mitsouko by Guerlain The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

The Post You Love Most. Looking back over the last year The Dandy noticed a strange thing, there is one scented letter far more adored than all the others… Mitsouko. It has been read, so the figures say, almost ten times more than any other of my aromatic missives. In fact, one in twenty visits here is to pay homage to Guerlain’s masterpiece. Let us do so again this Sunday. Yours ever, The Perfumed Dandy

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

Half her world, or so it seemed, came to give their lives at Verdun.

But what she got, was given or perhaps took was freedom.

So if she chooses now to smell of petroleum and peach schnapps and drive cars and boats too fast, surely we can all understand a little why.

She parties hard, lives each day, they say as though it were her last on account of lives that did not fly, men who died in trenches to move lines on maps and bleed angry armies white.

Yesterday, ambulant driver, she scuttled back and forth through filth ferrying human shrapnel to medical ward ammunition dumps.

Today, she presses her foot down hard on every kind of accelerator, sprays on every sort of new scent, tries on every type of new sex, but nothing brings erasure.

About her person she still smells iodine and the moss that grew everywhere…

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Sealed with a kiss… 

Dearest All

As some of you have been kind enough to mention:

 Yesterday The Dandy turned one.

Sometimes it really is appropriate to keep it short and simple.

So I simply wanted to say thank you for reading, commenting, participating making The Dandy what he is:

A Labour of Love.

Purely by chance, the eve of this Happy Birthday was the most popular day ever here with more people tuning in and flicking through more scented letters than at any time before.

The best present we could have hoped for.

Once again…

Yours ever, in gratitude and with great affection,

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Extraordinary gentleman of the Knight… White Rose by Floris for Sir John Gielgud The Perfumed Dandy’s Four Thespian Roses for St Valentine’s Day 

Perhaps Sir John was always more Green Carnation than White Rose.

A peculiarly British contradiction: feted peer of the realm, first among actors, arrested and prosecuted for ‘sexual offences’. Further enobled after his conviction.

His surface charm, that most say ran deep, and mellifluous tone that spoke of an equally honeyed, and giving, heart, never deserted him.

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I wonder if, like his great aunt, the every bit as legendary Ellen Terry he might have been tempted by the wares of Floris of Jermyn Street.

I’m sure he knew of the Turkish baths that once stood nearby, and proved inspiration for Penhaligon’s Hammam Bouquet.

The Floris shop still has the same wooden counters created for the Great Exhibition in 1851, from behind which Ellen, and John and now you are served.

Perhaps he might have chosen White Rose, a quintessentially theatrical scent.

Not large or grating you understand.

But subtle and insinuating like a fine actor’s performance.

It starts as a juvenile violet, sweet, innocent, slightly confectionery. Grows into a leading lady heart, more power and depth, jasmine providing elocution and projection.

The finish is pure dressing room: fading flowers, endless powder and slap, the spice of costumes worn tens of dozens of times.

Actor and theatre, person, place, perfume all one.

Gielgud, the performer personified is one of only eleven people, five actors, to have the rare distinction of an EGOT.

This inelegant acronym signifies their capturing of Emmy, Grammy, Oscar and Tony, and dominance of all performing arts.

Interestingly, Sir John received more Grammy nominations than for any of the purely acting awards… that voice…

… Wizardry!

Farewell then from the world of magic and theatre and roses.

Happy St Valentine’s Day.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Rule Britannia…. Elizabeth I by Jean Patou and Historic Royal Palaces for Dame Judi Dench The Perfumed Dandy’s Four Thespian Roses for St Valentine’s Day 

The power of a queen is not determined by her physical stature.

Nor the impact of an actress by her tenure on the screen.

Dame Judi Dench won an Oscar for her fleeting performance of Elizabeth I in “Shakespeare In Love”.

Outshining, to some minds, many of the juvenile leads.

Whether on set she wore the perfume that bears the name of ‘good Queen bess’ I must confess I do not know.

However it would have been most appropriate, for this work of olfactory archaeology must by one of the most ancient scents on the market today.

Lost for many years, the recipe for what fancies itself to be the fragrance worn by England’s Great Virgin, was rediscovered in the library of the Royal Horticultural Society in a volume enticingly named ‘The Mystery and Lure of Perfume’ by C J S Thompson.

It reads thus:

”Take 8 grains of musk and put in rose-water 8 spoonfuls, 3 spoonfuls of Damask-water, and a quarter of an ounce of sugar. Boil for five hours and strain it”

How closely these instructions have been followed by Patou, who worked with Historic Royal Palaces, to restore the perfume is unknown.

The result, however, is distinctly pleasing.

Old fashioned in an imperially-laundered way, it is an aroma by which to set sail and conquer continents.

Subtle, yet persuasive, it is not provocative or alluring, this is a pretty, clean, restrained rose to be admired, but not defiled.

One imagines it was once used in great quantities and in so doing to similar effect…

A side note on Dame Judi, though her appearance in this instance might have been short, her presence on the British stage and screen is long.

She first appeared professionally in 1957 at the Old Vic, forerunner to the National Theatre. She has gone on to play practically every major female part in Shakespeare and Renaissance drama, Chekhov, Ibsen and the modern canon.

She won her first BAFTA film award (of six) in 1966, her first for television in 1968, the same year that she opened in the West End premiere of Cabaret as Sally Bowles to huge acclaim.

And whilst she has amassed more than 25 major film awards over her 55 year plus career it is to the theatre that she belongs.

Perhaps best known to the rest of the world as ‘M’ in the Bond films, at the age of 79 she has been voted ‘Greatest Theatre Actor of All Time’ by her peers and fellow professionals in industry bible “The Stage”.

Rose Queen of the Theatre.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

 

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Queen of Hearts…. Voleur de Roses by l’Artisan Parfumeur for Helena Bonham Carter The Perfumed Dandy’s Four Thespian Roses for St Valentine’s Day 

Eccentric, gothic, playful, sexual.

A woodland elf with a crazed costumiers dress sense.

Helena Bonham Carter is the only living actress one can imagine brining in her own clothes to star as Miss Havisham, the Red Queen or an ape.

But what perfume would be the perfect compliment to her apparel?

One that matches her character we feel…

Eccentric, gothic, playful, sexual…. that’s l’Artisan Parfumeur’s Voleur de Roses in four words.

A menacing black mantilla of patchouli to make an entrance, pulled back over the head when the audience is underway to reveal full rose lips that, when kissed, carry something of plums, the bitterness of their skins still intact.

In time, a note of heavy theatrical maquillage becomes apparent, for this is, after all a performance of a Queen.

Perhaps the closest thing Britain has to a ‘movie star’ as opposed to the more august ‘actress’, Helena is quite every bit as grand as that double barreled name might suggest.

Her paternal great grandfather was H.H. Asquith, 1st Earl of Oxford and Prime Minister from 1908 to 1916, and that side of the family is littered with the great and the good from Florence Nightingale to the present day. Meanwhile on her mother’s side, her grandfather Eduardo Propper de Callejón saved thousands of Jews from the holocaust and was recognised as Righteous Among the Nations.

With that sort of pedigree, whilst Helena may not be a real queen she’s certainly screen aristocracy in every sense of the word.

Slice of antique wedding cake anyone?

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Shaken… with thorns… 900 by Aramis for Daniel Craig The Perfumed Dandy’s Four Thespian Roses for St Valentine’s Day

Not 007 but 900 this time for Mr Craig.

This roughed up rose: green, dirty, mossy, animal and uncompromising is the perfect perfume for the actor who has returned a sense of the complex, disturbed and difficult to Her Majesty’s Favorite Secret Agent.

The scent opens assertively, some even sensing outright aggression in amongst the oakmoss, coriander, green notes and pepper.

Then the rose, animal, fleshy but also strangely, astringently medicinal comes into play it seduces, but with a definite kick, an edge, a hint of danger.

It dries down into spice and sandalwood, wild grass and earth, never fully leaving behind the floral.

As ever for any Mr Bond, it all ends with a roll in the hay!

Rose petal martinis all round says I!

Shaken, not stirred, of course.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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A Dozen Roses for December (or February) The Perfumed Dandy’s Twelve Days Before Christmas Part V

With snow a foot deep in North America and wind and rain sweeping in across dear old Blighty. We are all weather-beaten lovers this year in the Northern Hemisphere. So, with real flowers somewhat thin on the ground, why not consider picking up the sort of fragrant rose that comes in a flacon? These may have been suggested for St Nicholas’s feast but will do just fine as a token of adoration whatever the object. Happy St Valentine’s all! Yours ever The Perfumed Dandy

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

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Surely nothing in the floral world is as luxurious as roses at the Yuletide.

Being able to defend myself against everything except decadence… I give you, dear readers, a dozen…

Knowing by Estee Lauder

Winter roses emerge as forces of will against nature.

They are determined, know their own minds and come replete with thorns.

Lauder’s animalic, oakmoss-heavy floral chypre may not seem in the least bit festive.

But get further acquainted and she has a generous heart.

The Dandy knows her of old… why not read the full review.

La Fille de Berlin by Serge Lutens

Perhaps because I tried it in a Paris gripped by snow and frosts in February.

Maybe because it recalls a world of black and white movies, which is most certainly so very Christmas too.

Or simply for it hints at something darker, a casual pain that must be gone through to…

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Of all the gardens in all the world… Une Rose by Frederic Malle The Perfumed Dandy’s Rose Scented Letter

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Today the flower bed is Flanders Fields.

The few fool hard February roses are poppies made.

Protruding on precarious stalks from sodden earth turned clay with endless winter’s rain.

One, though, remains almost the same.

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Identical in raw silk swirls to last summer, when, dressed in fatigues, he tapped your left shoulder, made you turn, scurried round to steal a kiss upon a your right cheek.

Then behind his back, with hidden hands, lest you chastise him for his horticultural crime he removed a whole corolla from its stem. Bringing forward and together cupped palms, offered you a bowl of crimson petals.

Holy roses.

You lean in to smell the bloom before you now, its perfume pathetically diminished.

All season-sapped strength has been coraled into this fine display, leaving nothing behind for scent.

“Of all the rose gardens in all the towns in all the world, he walks into mine.”

You’d said it as soon as you saw her name.

He, predictably, replied:

“I think this is the beginning of a beautiful friendship.”

Or the end, you thought, as his hand, calloused by army drills linked with yours, hardened with pruning and hoeing and weeding.

His khaki, your park keeper’s green, merging into camouflage you wished could hide you from the world and his call back to Helmand.

The aroma from half a year ago returns.

Inside, but not in approximation, no: hi definition news channel fidelity.

That same smell. Precisely.

Glace fruit, green at once wooden stem, the taste of red wine on his blistered lips as they search to find your mouth, the buzz of bumble bees, the musk of his armpits.

Mostly.

That one rose.

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Your six foot frame, normally so composed, as athletic as his soldier’s, still as supple as the dancer you dreamt of being, is about to give way.

The flourish from “Gone With The Wind” bursts forth from your mobile phone.

You redden. An elderly Japanese woman in an immaculate Macintosh of the type the British themselves never wear anymore looks across bemused from a nearby bench.

His face a few inches square on your screen.

New message.

“Here’s looking at you, kid!”

The roses in the mud look all the more like opium poppies now, and Wilfred Owen’s lines run through your mind.

Une Rose by Edouard Flechier for Frederic Malle is a narcotically, deceptively simple floral.

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A truth serum scent that remembers in hyper-reality an exact fragrance belonging to a certain flower at a determined time.

This is, as the name suggests, the smell unique to a strain of rose, perhaps even a specific plant, possibly just in one season, week, hour or moment.

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It is the memory of how a flower seemed, smelt, just ‘then’, rendered chemical, bottled, shipped and sold.

That said, it is not straightforward, for roses aren’t.

If other flowers contain olfactory kingdoms, roses are continents.

Here we have an opening that is full with fruit, sweet, too sweet perhaps for some, leaning a little to a bath oil and attars.

Then nature intrudes, a wood that is more green stalk than tree, a hint of honey and other flowers and something that adds depth, frivolity and flirtation.

Red wine: Beaujolais rather than Bordeaux, playful, young, mischievous.

Yet, all said, just as wine, for all the allusions it contains, still invariably tastes of wine, so this perfume is pervasively, inescapably, all about rose.

A sculpted, complex, personal, sexual, recollection of a rose.

Play it again, Frederic.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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