Monthly Archives: November 2013

An Upcoming Event: Chandler Burr… In conversation at The Illuminum Fragrance Lounge

Dear Friends (especially those based in London, or at least Blighty)

One of the most popular posts that The Dandy has ever committed to the internet was an interview with Chandler Burr, way backing in the Summer heights of August (if you missed it just click on the link to take a peek).

Chandler, known, no doubt, to most if not all of us, is a journalist, author, critic and now ‘Curator of the Department of Olfactory Art’ at New York’s MAD (Museum of Art and Design).

Well, Mr Burr will be appearing in London this week as part of a season of installations and exhibitions on ‘Perfume as Art’ at the Illuminum Fragrance Lounge on Dover Street.

Doesn’t it looked dashed comfy there!?!

The salon discussion will be hosted by Laura Bailey, AnOthermag.com Editor and perfume writer and, what’s more, tickets are on sale right now….

In fact, as I thought you might be interested, all the relevant details are jotted down below.

When? 13th November 2013

What time? 6pm – 8pm

Where? The Illuminum Fragrance Lounge, 41-42 Dover St, Mayfair London

How does one get in?
Tickets @ £15 each are available from http://buytickets.at/illuminumfragrance/11596

I’ve also been told to tell you that the soiree will be topped off by a drinks reception and there’s a ‘fragrant surprise’ for all the guests.

How lovely.

Just like Wild Tobacco, an Illuminum scent The Dandy reflected upon just recently (click on the links or image to share my thoughts).

If you’re in or around town I do hope you’ll be able to pop in… oh and do drop by here afterwards to tell us all about it.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

Post Script…

My conversation with Chandler was one part of a series with a number of bloggers organised by the inimitable Lanier of Scents Memory. You can find the others (or keep an eye out for their forthcoming appearance) on the following estimable websites:

Australian Perfume Junkies: http://australianperfumejunkies.com/

Smelly Thoughts: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/

Another Perfume Blog: http://anotherperfumeblog.com/

EauMG: http://www.eaumg.net/

What Men Should Smell Like: http://whatmenshouldsmelllike.com/

The Scented Hound: http://thescentedhound.wordpress.com/

The Fragrant Man: http://thefragrantman.com/

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Monstrous machine… Futur by Robert Piguet The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

It glowed, it gleamed, it begat electrical halos green like laser beams.

Then, it stirred.

At first the sheer extremity of it all inspired awe.

A vertiginous wrench at the small intestines.

A looking over the temporal precipice into the abyss below.

The shape of things to come.

Swathed in a menacing miasma of green, this gorgon wonder is a thing unseen before.

It is a woman all man made, entirely artificial with nothing of it natural.

Yet, it takes a shape that apes the organic world.

Its metal face turns soft, its steel frame melts to flesh and curls.

It wears plastic flowers in the form of jasmines and violets in jade hair made very platinum blond.

Crazed and delusional the illusion proves insupportable.

The science is not yet sufficiently tough.

Crushed by the clock the horror is over not a moment too soon in a scene that is somehow not long enough.

Exhausted and spent the last seconds are series of flashes and sparks that signal final torment.

That which never truly lived is dead.

Earth reclaims the air and fills it strangely with the fragrance of leaves and trees.

But are they real?

Is anything?

Futur by Robert Piguet is a science fiction scent recreated from a memory of a vision of a new and unfolding universe.

It is a brave attempt to re-imagine the bravado-laden optimism of 1960s in olfactory form.

Sadly though, for all its virtues, this perfume never reaches the realms of a classic fantasy.

Instead, it is a digitally linear exercise in abstract green.

Yes, there are hints at jasmine and violet (mainly leaf), nods to vetiver and bitter orange and the occasional allusion to a patchouli and wood axis.

However, this is a scent entirely dominated, consumed even, by a central and wholly synthetic green accord that is in essence chemical rather than natural.

There may have been time, probably around the point at which the perfume originally appeared, when this seemed dramatic, daring, an augur of of the future.

Now it seems industrial, bordering on the functional and a testament in scent to the notion that nothing seems as unreal as yesterday’s vision of tomorrow.

A great curiosity this, and one, for all my reservations that I am very glad I’ve tried, though whether it can survive when even a green devil such as The Dandy would find it difficult to wear, I doubt.

Now, of course, I am desperate to try the vintage!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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“No comment…!” The Perfumed Dandy’s Involuntary Vow of Silence

‘No comment’ is a splendid expression. I am using it again and again.
Winston Churchill

Old WordPress seems to be having one of those odd turns when she won’t let one do all manner of things, in this case leave comments, and for no apparent reason.

So if you find The Dandy somewhat delayed in his responses to your bon mots these days, and almost absent from my favourite blogs and fora, please do not suppose it because I have gone away or am in a fit of pique, simply that until these technological absurdities are sorted out I have been silenced.

Boo hoo.

I do so hope we shall talk soon, meanwhile I’m always around and abouts at twitter and facebook

Yours ever, and in anticipation of a swift return to commentary.

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Gunpowder, treason and perfume… The Perfumed Dandy’s Bonfire Night Fragrances 

Careering through the celebrations and commemorations as we do in this part of the world at this time of year we arrive at what is commonly known as ‘Bonfire Night’.

In remembrance of a failed plot to explode our (still extant and still unelected) House of Lords in 1605, great conflagrations are set alight across the land, effigies of the chief conspirator, Guy Fawkes are burnt atop the flames, and fireworks in their thousands are sent soaring into the usually cold and damp skies.

Before setting off to catch a display or two from up a local hill The Dandy shares a few scent associations with this strangest of British festive nights….

1. Gunpowder

From fireworks and in to remember plots past.

2. Wood (ready for the flames)

Though one concedes this would be an event where they were burning artists’ pencils en masse.

3. Tomato

If only the ketchup for the inevitable hotdogs smelt as supreme as this scent.

4. Coca Cola

What else to wash the treason down with?

5. Afterwards (woodsmoke)

When everything has settled down and the whizzbangs are over.

There are scented letters on Feminite du Bois and Youth Dew if you would care to peruse, otherwise…

Have an exuberantly explosive evening!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Orange ever after… Tilda Swinton Like This… by Etat Libre d’Orange The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

From All Saints’ Day onward for about a week or maybe two, through All Souls’ Day and Bonfire Night, he keeps up a steady round of collecting.

At first people are unwilling to give up their gourdes.

Either they have invested too much effort in carving their gruesome, welcoming faces or they promise themselves that they will roast the seeds and scoop out the flesh for purees and pies.

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They never do.

And so as November wears on, after a second or third time of asking, neighbours and strangers are more prepared to surrender their squashes.

It could of course have been that they think him somewhat strange in his frugal requests and want to forbid his return by acquiescing to let him have their discarded fruits.

Certainly he cuts a figure odd enough to engender fear: rangy in unkempt, well cut antique tweeds, flowing cream collarless shirts with double cuffs never fastened at the end of simian arms.

A single rose in his untidy, unwinding buttonhole.

Upon his head a moss green bowler hat that can’t ever hope to keep control of the extravagant red hair exploding forth in natural ringlets.

Maybe some of them have seen the ritual he performs once his harvest is gathered in.

In his back garden a pile of pumpkin shells a man or so high stands, and when he is satisfied that no more will come his way he begins his mellow fruited mass.

First, a strengthening soup, made from orange juice and the soft insides stewed with ginger and spice, served with heavy bread topped with the toasted seeds.

Then he withdraws his instrument from its ancient wooden case.

A croquet mallet, hip high in height, rendered in light wood, sunset velvet wrapped around the shaft to form a grip.

He swings the hammer high above his head taking on a golfer’s gait.

With a sound like sirens hissing it stirs a great arc in the sky before landing a blow upon an unsuspecting orange sphere.

The smashing of the pumpkins has begun.

And in the next hour or so, as short Autumn dusk becomes night, lit by the flames of the hundreds of candles he has set about his makeshift altar, he will reign down a shower of coups upon the crop.

Until, at last, all is reduced to a great wet rubble that he covers in already rotting leaves and old bouquets of immortelles, the daisies the English call ‘everlasting’.

Pungent of spiced pumpkin and with something of decaying flowers about it Etat Libre d’Orange’s Tilda Swinton Like This is a sickening, almost sublime anti-gourmand scent.

It is a sweet but rather uneasy, certainly not mellow, impression of the after-harvest.

Individual notes are discernable, most especially pumpkin, immortelle daisies and ginger, with an abiding tangerine note that is too sedate to be truly citrus.

But it is the general accord, the olfactory equivalent of the colour ‘burnt orange’, the shade the leaves of certain trees turn before they fall, that remains in the senses longest.

The perfume’s chief achievement is the marrying of these very specific and realistic tones and an architecture which is as abstract as it is linear.

Yet for all that it is an undoubtedly accomplished piece of work, it seems distant, strange and strangely unfulfilling being neither a satisfactory scent of the happy harvest nor a fragrance that captures the inherent sadness of the fall.

It is something in between.

Neither red nor yellow.

It’s a very odd and orange sort of thing.

Being in between I suppose it could be classed as unisex, so a man or woman could wear it with ease. But not The Dandy.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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