Home by way of Hollywood… The Perfumed Dandy’s Staycation Snapshots

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Rain fell in London today.

From billiard ball black clouds water descended to make lawns lush again, tarmacadam and cobbles shiny and knock the gloss of happy moods.

Turning a corner into a familiar mews where a friend once lived, I found it made a film shoot.

Though cameras and actors had not arrived yet, lighting men were hanging glowing orbs in the sky from improbably angled cranes and other engineers were building scaffold towers for who knows what adventures.

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Around the corner… vintage cars, that I remember from the first time round, gleaming like new under layers of turtle wax, making me feel tortoise old, wait for their on-screen moments.

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What do movie sets smell like?

Tonight, wet foliage, sodden pollen and flushed through storm drains mixed with motor polish.

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Leaving behind this closed road turned rabbit hole leading to a fictional period world, I am still left pondering…

What is the scent of the ‘real’ cinema close up?

Is it iris heavy greasepaint? Or newly laundered clothes? Egos?

Perhaps, these days, air-conditioning and anti-sceptic?

What do you imagine the fragrance of the films to be?

Do tell.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Church… Incense… Incense Avignon by Comme de Garcons The Perfumed Dandy’s Sunday Scent

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A weekend out of town for The Dandy in the beautiful City of Chester.

With a history stretching back more or less unbroken to Roman times, the past runs through the terrain here like the great seams of red sandstone in the local soil.

These rocks have been hewn from the ground to create the settlement’s walls and its cathedral, built over generations between the eleventh and sixteenth centuries. Restored, some would say rebuilt, in the nineteenth.

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Though the Church of England does not prohibit the use of incense, it is less widespread than in many Roman Catholic places of worship.

Nevertheless, nearly five centuries after the schism with Rome, somehow these ancient churches still seem at least to smell of the universal scent of devotion.

Olfactory connective tissue linking the senses across time, from ancient Rome to papal imperium to modern day England.

No perfume so perfectly captures this scent as Comme des Garcons Incense Avignon.

And so today beneath glowering stormy skies I wore it to wander along walls and through once monastic precincts and contemplate times past.

See you back ‘in town’ on Monday.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

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The Hit Parade is off on holiday… But The Perfumed Dandy’s staying home!

Dear Friendlies

As the high summer season is upon us (in “The North” at least) the mind inevitably turns to rock pools, sandy shores and sunny climes… in short to holidays!

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Now some of you may be aware that The Dandy has already been on his American Adventure, so I will be staying home this August (in the main), but The Hit Parade will be taking an extended break.

Over the last nearly six months you have selected an astonishing array of perfumes for me to peruse, and I have worn them all – the vast majority of them willingly – on my skin.

However, with time constraints and travel ever acting as diversions, I have fallen a little behind in furnishing you with of accounts of my experiences.

So for the next month or so I will be concentrating on this task and penning the scores of scented letters I find I now owe you all.

Fear not though, as I shall still be adorning myself with The Dandy’s Scent Today in order to remind me of the aromas that I’m writing about.

I’ll also endeavour to keep you entertained with occasional snaps of The Perfumed Dandy’s Staycation Summer.

Oh and while I’m about it, don’t forget that I’m forever popping moderately interesting snippets of my humble existence on facebook and twitter… so why not take a peek there too!

The following symbols will, I’m reliably informed, take you directly to my hang outs at these places…

Well, I feel better now that I’ve set The Dandy’s house in order and look forward to doing what I like best… writing to my dear friends about fragrance.

Have an exquisite summer.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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One more curtain call… Narcisse Noir by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Encore

Dearest Alls

Apologies to the many of you who have already perused my thoughts on this great perfume, but, for the sake of completeness, I felt I should highlight my review of Narcisse Noir by Caron.

This way when our little festival of this fragrant house comes to an end, all the gems I have had the chance to try and write about will be found in one place together.

Simply click on the link above or one of these sumptuous images to be transported to the world of classical ballet and beautiful yellow flowers…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Perfumed Dandy’s Scent Today… Fleurs de Rocaille by Caron

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Would you believe, a ballot tied three ways!

One of those rare occasions when I had to use my casting vote…

And what else was The Dandy to do in this last instalment of The Hit Parade before it heads off on its holidays than chose the only Caron in the pack?

I do hope it doesn’t disappoint!

Following its selection by your good selves, The Perfumed Dandy will now take a few days (or weeks) to deliberate and cogitate the merits and mischiefs of this fragrance fair or foul and will, in due course, provide his report on relations with the new discovery by means of a scented letter.

There will be other opportunities to choose perfume to be placed on The Dandy’s skin when The Hit Parade returns in the autumn.

In the meantime if you would like to thrust forward a fragrance for future fame simply visit ‘Suggest and old scent or recommend a new one’ and leave your suggestion there.

More to come on doings over the next month or so, until then…

Have an especially fragrant day!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Everything to declare… Poivre by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

If anyone had taken a moment to truly observe that hat they mistook for a jester’s, they might have entered an entirely other world.

For the old woman who wore sharply tailored pin striped suits in city banker navy blue and was never without a red carnation for her buttonhole was anything other than the bum they assumed her to be.

She knew her make up was too white, her lips and rouge too red, her auburn hair dyed too bright.

She didn’t care, far from it, that is what she intended them to be.

A statement of intent.

To live apart and differently from other people, to be who and exactly what she wanted to be.

If they asked her, and no one ever did, she would tell them everything.

Of the life she had led among the elite, the fashionable, the artists, the artistes, the stars and singers, politicians and public figures.

Royalty, even.

How she had been the face of a generation that everyone had forgotten.

How she had gone from front page news to ‘saveloy and chips’ wrappers and tool drawer linings in just a few short years.

Too many nights on the tiles, too many boyfriends, too many rumours of girlfriends.

Once being named as a co-respondent in a divorce in the decade before it was nearly respectable.

Now she goes about her business, revelling in anonymity and the money she was given to keep quiet.

A little mountain of money to keep her in clove cigarettes, spiced coffee in the Turkish style and fine tailoring still smelling of the cooking of the immaculate Indian born women who run things up for her these days.

Cash that has grown into a small fortune.

Wealth enough, in fact, to allow her to talk now, if only there was anyone around to listen.

But she is reconciled to allowing the rest of her time on Earth to evaporate away silently in understated sweetly scented luxury, until all of her is gone into the air.

A man, pink socks and plus fours, silk chemise and fair isle tank top stops her as she makes her way along Mount Street,

“Isn’t that a Schiaparelli?”

“It is” she smiles “And you may buy me coffee.”

Vintage Poivre by Caron is an eccentric grand dame of a scent.

An immaculate once fashionable living memorial to an age of elegance, self-assurance and discreet debauchery.

The fiery start, which is what everyone remembers, is as much carnation as bell or black pepper. A floral flame to set the nostrils alight delightfully.

We are escorted through this ring of fire by cloves, who shall be our unceasing companion throughout, and taken to a floral core where roses, ylang ylang and feint tuberose come and go.

Here the perfume settles finally and begins a long wistful decay into a whisper, though the word on its lips very much remains ‘clove’.

Beyond this lies the familiar oppoponax, animalic silk powder and slight green of the distinctive Caron base, made more like makeup by a carrot tone that might be unlisted iris.

Poivre is a passionately hot affair of the heart that cannot possibly last.

It is a weekend away at the British seaside for a man and wife who are most definitely not married to each other.

It is elicit and exciting, knowing and nubile and splendidly not as young as it once was and not as well behaved as it should be.

In short it’s a naughty, dirty, fiery but ever so fanciable fragrance.

Unfortunately, this ‘little bit of what you fancy that does you good’ is in short supply, having been sadly discontinued in recent times.

Luckily, The Dandy does know where one can try, and more importantly buy, the most recent, and really pretty pleasant version. Of which more to come later in the week.

In the meantime… a bientot.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The marriage meadow… Nocturnes by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

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She remembered the smell of grass so hot it shimmered.

The lawn a sea of blades with bridesmaids bobbing like boats upon it.

A bouquet thrown aloft by the bride that seemed to stay in the air a short eternity before arriving in her open arms.

And though it came as no surprise, for the flowers were aimed in her direction, the relief when they landed was a shiver running through her body.

The blooms buoyed her up despite their weight, lifting her shoulders, her head with confidence and hope: she is made a ship sailing higher in the water.

Soon, she thinks, she will find safe harbour too.

Raising the arrangement to her nose and breathing in deeply, her chest swelling within unused-to corsetry, she senses white roses, orange flowers and jasmine.

And in between the lightly worn innocence of lily of the valley.

She recalls a time before disappointment when the world was forever on the up, mere moments, as they appear across the years, ahead the let downs and the lows.

The other members of the matrimonial sorority kiss and congratulate her, aware to varying degrees of why she should receive this special favour.

She tastes the flavour of make up and scent in their kind attentions: sandalwood and musk, sweet resinous iris fresh from the compact.

Then they are gone to attend on the new bride and groom or their own significant others and she is left alone in the long grass of the meadow they have chosen to get married in.

Sinking.

He throws her smile like a life jacket.

His full lips lending his face a youthful air, belying the fact that he has known pain.

“He lost his wife within months to cancer.”

“They must have known on the day.”

“So sad.”

She has heard the whispers and takes his hand more surely for them.

After all it might be a single best man’s duty to escort the unmarried bridesmaid, but perhaps she can be his support too today.

Their arms intertwine to form an accord as perfect as the music that accompanies them in to dinner.

Something by Debussy, she thinks, as the heat dissipates and the sun begins its descent.

The night awaits.

Caron’s Nocturnes is a reassertion of a classic composition made a new with enthusiasm and elan.

Like a wedding, the form, the shape, the ritual and ceremony remain largely the same. 

It is in the detail that the fragrance asserts its own personality.

Nocturnes, despite its name, has a decidedly sunny disposition.

Possessing more than a dash of good-humoured defiance, this is a perfume with an air of optimism about it.

Perhaps it is waiting patiently for the day when it will be properly appreciated.

The beginning is all about aldehydes, mixed conventionally with citrus and citrus flower.

The impression is of a very refined sparkling orange squash made with carbonated rosewater.

The heart is undeniably floral, forming an accord that is seamlessly blended, neither jasmine nor tuberose being allowed to play their usual dominant role.

Developing from this core is the scent’s most striking facet: a chemically enhanced, pleasantly pneumatic vetiver.

This is lawn at its very lightest, as though it might float away were it not tethered to a somewhat tenuous base of sandalwood and musk, the part of the whole I like least.

Within the constraints of floral aldehydes, the strict metre poetry of perfume, this fragrance is quietly original,  pairing flowers with meadow.

Nocturnes has an outdoors, daytime informality that is refreshing, airy and unquestionable highly attractive.

It is a scent one can imagine falling in love to.

Quite like infatuation, this fragrance suits all sexes equally.

By the way for the sake of clarity, I wore the version of Nocturnes pictured above, not the original and certainly not the 2013 edition, which, quite frankly, is a disaster, robbing the scent of all its elevation in the opening and taking an age to get to the sunlight flower meadow that is its joy.

Beware.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Lust in a cold climate…Tabac Blond by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Classic Collection

I tempted fate rather when I claimed winter in July the other day, for the weather changed almost instantly here. So whilst the winds blow and the rain falls, let’s be transported once more to the other end of the year…

theperfumeddandy's avatarThe Perfumed Dandy.

The winter comes in early and hard to these northern ports where France ends suddenly and the blank-faced Atlantic begins.

In storm surges sideways rain slams the little parade of quayside shops. At night all are battened down except for M. Caron’s, the red cedar stained exterior lit by one lamp. It casts its beam across the familiar sign ‘bar-tabac-bierres blondes’ and Pelforth’s pelican looking on.

Inside, cutting a swathe through the thick sweet cloud to reach a table, the scent is not of the acrid shavings smoked by sailors, stokers and stevedores but of the honeyed, clove-infused, golden hued stuff of the officers’ mess. Imbibed through pipes not papers.

Defying the sign you order a bierre brune: dark amber in a glass, brewed from English yeast brought over to the conjure comfort of home for soldiers on their return from the front.

Long stemmed carnations in clear glass carafes…

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Once a gem, now hit into the rough… Emeraude by Coty The Perfumed Dandy’s Sunday (Evening) Scent

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Is it heresy to enjoy a little spice on a balmy summer’s eve?

The Dandy certainly doesn’t think so, therefore it should come as no surprise that I have been reaching for my trusty new “old” bottle of Emeraude by Coty of late.

Sometimes erroneously called “Shalimar’s little sister”, as Chypre is to Mitsouko it could be argued, Emeraude is to it’s more famous Oriental sibling.

Francois Coty venturing in 1921 where Guerlain would follow some four years later.

Unfortunately, I have never had the opportunity to try a version from before the 1960s and my present edition shown above is much more contemporary.

Nevertheless, even from vintages as recent as this, Emeraude is a perfume that lives up to its precious name.

It has a splendid citrus and pepper opening, turning resinously spicy before billowing into the great vanilla powder puff clouds that it is rightly famous for.

Emeraude is an easy, enveloping and lovable scent, youthful even as it approaches its one hundredth birthday.

I’ve always been surprised no one has suggested I review this fragrance, perhaps it’s because the present incarnation is just so, well, plain.

Talking of suggestions, don’t forget there’s still time to vote in The Hit Parade this weekend, and help decide what I should wear come Monday.

Pip pip.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Winter in July… Nuit de Noel by Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Christmas is being imported this year.

It will come in a crate by boat and be brought, a little piece of Europe in a box, up from the harbour to our room at Raffles Hotel.

On opening it, I “must be careful” not to unsettle the contents lest one item has been broken and is spilt upon and spoils the others.

The pre-fabricated festivities will have as little to do with Christmas as our lives in this heat and 70% humidity have with a happy marriage.

The box is all flashes and flickers of the world I once knew, before Singapore, before the War even.

Candied fruit, heavy English rosewater – slightly turned, vanilla essence just good enough for custard and a cologne that promises Scandinavian forests and delivers the sweaty, peaty, mossy mass of wet woodland floor in early German spring.

Biscuits shot with caraway, aniseed and oats remind one of the cheeses, hams and cold cuts that we do not have to go with them. They draw an outline around the absence, forming a shape where Christmas and love should be.

These gifts from home serve only to unsettle. Hallowed by sea wave salts and ambers, they are little relics of lost happiness.

The hamper but half emptied, I turn away and fix a gin with something pink and something holy and something local.

How I wish this dress was more loosely fitted.

I raise the glass, a foaming mousse the liquid’s head, to my mouth and inhale the whole in one measure.

The emptied vessel returned to the cabinet I charge another and walk out onto the hot and balmy balcony drink in hand.

Ylang ylang and jasmine fill the air, sharp and distracting, they feel like passing dangers soon supplanted by the reek of the real cancer within: my chest and its presents from the past.

I should shut it up and lock it away, but know the scent it gives off and the pervading sense of an incomplete existence will remain.

I surrender to the smell of passed contentments, long to clamber inside the crate, wrap myself in padding and packaging and be posted back a steerage stowaway in time for Easter.

I will decide tomorrow, it is, after all, the eve of a day of great import.

Nuit de Noel by Caron is no Christmas as we know it.

It is a strange, apprehending and unnerving fragrance that brings forth a variety of notes all slightly off key and not what they should be.

It is an unfloral-floral, a savoury Vanilla, a wintery Chypre a Western oriental.

It is in fact a foreigner abroad, the perpetual expatriate.

It gathers around itself all the talismans of celebration and success: a little animalic, some rose, jasmine, oakmoss and leather.

But rather than a self confident Paris-dressed woman at the height of European chic the effect is of a lonely glamorously tragic gin-soaked figure carving out an existence in place of living a life, somewhere far off and unhappy.

This is a precise and beautiful perfume, done great disservice by reviewers who perceive only its sweeter and more flowery notes.

They are like the local diplomat who intentionally misses the melancholy in the eyes of his colleagues wife, just to save inconvenience.

Like many sad smells it is eminently wearable, yet fearfully beautiful.

The Dandy knows this review comes at just the wrong time of year, but as this is a perfume composed of paradoxes it seems entirely appropriate…

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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