Spooks’ scents and phantom fragrances… The Perfumed Dandy’s Halloween Week of Olfactory Horrors

Cher Amis

Inspired by the storms which, if not quite raging, still persist around us, and being ever one for joining in the sensations of the season, this week The Dandy takes trip to the dark side, the realm of the olfactory occult.

Over the next few days a pick of perfumes, fair and foul, that speak to the time when witches, warlocks, phantoms, ghouls and horrors of all kinds abound.

I beseech you, remain close by my side as these adventures may place your dear Dandy in mortal peril.

Perhaps indeed danger might be warded off if I too appeared, or at least smelt, as one of the undead.

So your suggestions please as to perfumes that might be best worn when consorting with those from the ‘other world’…

What are your favourite and most frightening fragrances?

Yours ever, in spirit…

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Big fig leaf… Ninfeo Mio by Annick Gouttal The Perfumed Dandy’s Sunday Scented Letter

Starting as sharp as the sculptor’s chisel.

A steely citrus brought to a point in renderings of lemon and its steely, burlier cousin citron.

The artist’s hands, armed with tools of petitgrain and wood, carve out the fleshier whole.

Cool galbanum-polished marble, made lustrous with lentisque, soon forms concupiscent curves.

Voluptuous lines of beauty that serve to excite and some disturb.

The shapes, muscular and sensual, soft and hard are unmistakably human.

A pleasure for most a pain for a few to regard.

So with deference to slighter, politer affected innocence.

A massive stone leaf is erected to cover that which otherwise might, and cause fright.

And the the piece becomes firmly all about the fig frond.

Annick Goutal’s Ninfeo Mio is a majestically intimate work of art, searchingly sensual to the point of becoming a delicious profanity in perfume form.

Conceived as a impression of a Roman garden in the height of summer, it’s interplay between the green fleshiness of fig leaf and the taught power of citrus and galbanum makes for a fecund fragrance more redolent of the revels of the Imperial Court than the lives of mere plants.

The briskness of the opening lemon note at once reveals that this is a aroma with fixed intentions, the smell is stripped from the rind laying bare the fruit’s inner facets in an instant.

Then follows galbanum in all it’s travertine assertiveness, an intervention almost architectural in it power.

But the beam is quickly roused into a relief of human forms and fig leaf scrolls, never fully realist, always artful, always surely stone.

And then an effect quite unexpected, out of a series of notes another, not present itself is conjured.

A definite dessicated coconut, of soft Eastern dishes, pastries and anointing oils appears and makes everything that has gone before even more luscious, bordering on the lascivious.

This must have been the sort of scent with which courtesans and concubines, favourite gladiators and golden boys were made to shine.

It is lusty and stony in equal part, one measure divine the other utterly human, sacred and profane and perhaps too powerful for all to handle.

Genius.

The statue of Michelangelo’s David was presented to Queen Victoria by the Grand Duke of Tuscany in 1857.

She passed it at once, it is said without ever having looked upon its ‘obscene’ form, to the South Kensington Museum, today’s V&A.

When finally she resolved to visit her priceless new piece she expressed herself inexpressibly shocked, an act which only a Sovereign can perform.

In reaction to such censure, curators immediately commissioned a composite stone fig leaf to preserve their new possession’s privacy.

The leaf, half a metre long, as befits a man six metres tall, was installed whenever ‘women of quality’ wished to view the masterpiece.

And so things continued until the time of Queen Empress Mary, indomitable wife of George V, who would become the world’s greatest dowager after husband’s death.

Mary of Teck, the most cultured individual Britain’s modern royal family have managed to import, required that the plaster cast be removed and the piece’s glory fully restored to public gaze.

Yet, for many contemporaries, the statue, so they thought, had remained more sexual when part covered.

The tension between concealment and nudity being a thing of sexual excitement.

The imagination more powerful even than the hands of the most revered master.

So fig leaves you see can sometimes be more erotic than the things they obscure.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Of bumble bees and British tweed… Aromatics Elixir by Clinique The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

No one was actually sure if she was actually British at all.

It might just have been that she was bossy, boozy, a bit of an intellectual bully and bloody well bizarre.

What everyone knew was that the tweed wearing battleaxe had definitely worked across ‘The Pond’ as a biochemist or arboriculturist, well something botanical, anyhow.

And if you dared ask her about that smell that stood five feet before her it was so bold, she’d reply

“Brewers’ Yeast: for the vitamin B. Keeps everything ticking along under the bonnet.”

Which apparently was British: meaning the engine under the hood was running okay.

But you know, all the same, the accent wasn’t right: more Bryn Mawr than Blighty if you ask me.

There was certainly still a little of that lab about her though, some people said she experimented to this day in an outbuilding round the back, away from prying eyes.

Yep, it definitely wasn’t just the sour fragrance of fermentation, there was a sort of organo-chemical kick that she carried along with her too.

I don’t know, maybe the aroma of asparagus maybe the smell of passing water after eating asparagus.

Either way it was an unwieldy sort of a waft.

She’d bought the farmstead up near the woods, a damp spot nobody else much took a liking too, because it reminded her of that unspecified ‘home’ of hers.

She lived self-sufficiently, after a fashion, collecting wood for the fire, scrapping off the bitter moss and leaving the fuel to dry in an old barn.

Sometimes as winter approached and it got too wet up there for safe storage, she made her own charcoal to see herself through the cold months.

She never asked a soul for help.

She relied on no one except herself.

Her garden was immaculate, her pride and joy, but she grew nothing she couldn’t eat, or so she joked.

All the same a woman who took eggs and the like up from the village, her only concession to community, the nearest thing to a friend she had, said there were often cut flowers in there.

Carnations or geraniums mostly, always red, like the out of joint lipstick she wore sometimes, mainly on her teeth. Blooms in a plain vase on a bare table in a cold kitchen, where hearth and stove were rarely lit.

Over chamomile or sage tea she gave nothing much away to her confidant, apart from that infamous aroma, deepened inside the hut by the patchouli oil she burnt. Only that when she went off in that station wagon of hers it was to teach science at some delinquent school across in the next county.

They only called her in when things were really bad.

“Never blame the children’ she said ‘it’s always the parents, that’s why they are, we all are, as we are.”

“They fetch me in when the adults need the fright of God put in them .”

She smiled knowingly and sighed.

‘The good Lord knows the smell of me would scare most people in this state from fifty feet out’.

Aromatics Elixir by Clinique is one of the most disgustingly delectable fragrances ever committed to scent.

Everything is absolutely wrong with it.

It is too sharp, too bitter, too sage, too hard.

It has too much oakmoss, too much darkness in the patchouli, too chemical an edge to the aldehydes, too much dirty wood smoke.

Too much everything and then some.

It really is the tough spinster with a terrible past who lives on the hill.

But it is unspeakably wonderful at exactly the same time.

It works precisely because it shouldn’t

Just as according to the rules of physics the bumble bee shouldn’t fly so according to the teachings perfumery this fragrance should never take flight, and yet the scent soars.

Rules 0. The Clinique All Star Bumble Bees 2.

Oh and as for the regulations concerning men’s and women’s perfume? Late goal.

Anyone with a personality as big as this bold old gal has earned the right to fill a room with it.

I make that a three nil win for Bees and Elixirs.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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A very bourgeois uprising… 1969 Parfum de Revolte by Histoires de Parfums The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

“Well if it isn’t our dear Dame Nelly of Notre Dame!?!”

He swept into the shop with a flourish and such force that it left the bell above the door ringing for some moments after his grand entrance.

“Open even today!”

His wide Gallic face, flushed with the unseasonal cold May air and no doubt a ‘medicinal’ mid-morning brandy or two, glowed red and shone a little from the effort of guiding his enormous frame up the hill of the rue Mouffetard.

“The show must go on!”

He hazarded in English and his hilarious, even to him, as-broad-as-his-belly French accent.

He once told her as they were sharing a rum baba and watching world go by on a particularly slow day that he modelled his manner of speaking English on the Queen of England’s attempts at French…

“All the words are there, and arranged most correctly, the grammar is immaculate… but the mouth, it does its own thing, the tongue is trapped in its native language.”

She laughed then, as she always did with him, and encouraged the story on.

“Yes, Elizabeth and I, we are both engaged in an attempt to speak each other’s language through the medium of our own. She speaks French through the medium of English and I English French.”

Since then his few and far between Anglo-Saxon words would always be known between them as ‘English French’.

Standing before her now, unwrapping and depositing his various silk scarves around the store, a latter day elephantine male rendering of Salome’s dance, he stopped suddenly and fixed a stare upon her, raised first his right eyebrow and then both his arms.

It looked to anyone but her like an invitation to be embraced by his so-thick-they-might-be-wings arms, indeed the first time she had rushed forward to receive the hug, only to be batted away like a naughty child.

“This is not an invitation to intimacy. It is an expression of curiosity! What wares have you to tempt me today?”

For this is why he travelled up the ‘mountain’ as he called it, every morning, past at least a dozen perfectly competent French owned and run bakeries, epiceries and pattiseries to come to her tiny hole in the wall just before the Place de la Contrascarpe.

She was the avant garde of the cake and pastry world of Paris.

The revolutionary who’s mission it was to let everyone eat cake.

He told her so, he told everyone so, in great and enthusiastic detail.

Those who liked him would be most likely to describe him as ‘avuncular’ and compare him to a favourite uncle, those who didn’t thought him ‘overbearing’ and just like a despised sibling of, invariably, their father’s.

Judging by the steady stream of customers who came through her door on the basis of his recommendations, there were more people who adored this funny uncle of a man than bore him a family grudge.

“Well” she smiled, “We have your favourite…”

Before she could finish his brows had danced a merry jig upon his forehead, all of which his eyes had rolled skywards to witness and now he was joining with her in near song ,

“Tarte aux peches Melba!”

It was the dish that had won her the honour of being re-named after the great operatic soprano,that, and of course, the fact that she was an Australian, but they chose not to talk of that.

His nose began to twitch now, as his manner took on that of Alice’s white rabbit, the game they played each day was underway.

He would, by a process of deduction (or chance, she tended to think) ascertain what other curiosities she had cooked up that morning.

Beyond the sweet tinned peach in syrup, coated with vanilla custard wrapped in the light baked almond smell of pastry cut through with sharp raspberry puree he detected…

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“Cardamom! Yes there is something of the East here today.”

From below the counter she withdrew a tray of cardamom and clove infused French flan.

He smiled, held up two figures in a ‘V’ modelled after Mr Churchill, not for victory now, but double portions.

“Of course there is coffee, there is always coffee, and chocolate too… something tells me, my little antipodean songbird that you have put them together.”

She drew back the tiny red velvet curtain that concealed a triple layered china cake stand balancing in the window.

“Cappuccino crème brulee!!”

This time four digits shot into the air, they were, after all “small” and “friends are forever falling on one’s hospitality”.

He began to peer around the room, uncertain as to the final morsel of fun.

“I smell roses.” He said with an air of triumph.

“And yet in these vases of yours there are only white flowers and not one of them is a rose!”

With a curtsey she revealed to knickerbocker glory glasses filled to the brim with gooey matter of many shades of pink and topped with a dusting of cream and then icing sugar.

He shrugged his shoulders. Brought both hands to his mouth.

She set down the glasses on the single circular table and they sat.

Armed with long spoons they attacked her new invention.

“A jelly of Turkish delight. Rose blancmange. Cardamom again in the cream.”

“A triumph!” He exclaimed.

“A trifle.” She responded.

A frown forced those athletic brows down into a point above his fat nose. This was a word he did not know.

From a pocket emerged his tiny pocket translation dictionary… plump fingers raced through the pages…

“Trifle…

‘a thing of little value or importance’…”

He looked seriously at her, the colour departing a little from his cheeks.

“But I fear these are moments of great importance.”

“Students are lifting cobblestones from the streets around the Sorbonne to throw them at the Gendarmes, their brothers, fathers, uncles sometimes. DeGaulle has left the country or so they say and millions have stayed at home today.”

“We are on a precipice my little Pan of the pastry kitchen….”

“But what is the value of worrying for now, when we have such delights in front of us!”

“These are….”, she began.

“The last desserts you have the ingredients to make.” He finished.

“I know, but I have plenty put aside for such a time as this.”

Histoires de Parfums’ 1969: Parfum de Revolte is a curiosity shop turned confisserie pattiserie of a scent.

It is an eccentric uncle of a fragrance, dressed in crazily miss matched clothes that somehow come together to make a unique and engaging look.

Being British, The Dandy finds himself incapable of resisting this slightly mad cap, if not downright peculiar, perfume, conceived it seems entirely on a whim.

Everything starts out peachy, quite literally. Though what we are offered here is more akin to the canned fruit served swimming in rich syrup than anything picked straight from the branch.

Yet, strangely, inexplicably in fact, the opening doesn’t cloy.

This must I part be due to the surreal intrusion of a giant and garishly artificial rose in the heart. This improbable note is an inflatable toy rendering of the bloom, but somehow it works.

This could be because this particular rose scent has as much to do with Ottoman pastry and nougat than the flower itself.

The addition of spice, particularly cardamom, helps considerably and has the rather interesting effect of creating a ‘trompe le nez’ with hints of both mint and coconut appearing from apparently nowhere (as neither are listed in the official notes).

The herb merges with clove and chocolate to form a sort of after dinner mint effect that paired with a subtle coffee has one getting ready from some brandy, that sadly never comes (presumably that would have been a step too far for even this olfactory oddity).

Set out like that, the fragrance that emerges might sound like an ultra niche oddity concerned more with eliciting reaction than being beautiful.

True, this is not a beautiful perfume, but it is a pretty, witty, engaging and highly attractive affair much more in the whole than the sum of its parts.

Not unhinged at all, nor revolutionary, just a little off the wall.

I’d wear it.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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What’s it all about, Alfie….? Infusion d’Iris by Prada The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

They called her “The Hitchcock Blonde”.

A single student had started it.

A shy first year, all subtle grey eyes and manicured stubble and bordering on being a sophisticate, he saw past her steely manner into what he perceived as something vulnerable within.

He noticed her arriving early each day, as he did, when the university still smelt of the orange and lemon St Clements’ Furniture Polish they used to clean the wooden floors.

On his way to swimming practice he observed her walking through the gates and pausing once within the place of learning to collect herself and her thoughts.

At this time of day she was at her most slender and stem like: encased in a green pillar coat that held the leafy loose clothes she favoured for teaching tucked in out of sight.

That moss-coloured coat cost more that a tutor could afford, even his young untrained eyes could tell that.

With a corrolla of blonde hair above her fragile face in these moments she resembled a wild flower, or so it seemed to him.

By the time swim team was through and he had reached the seminar room class had invariably started.

She stood at the chalk face whispering explanations through the dust of her scribbled seemingly endless equations. White powder mixed with the iris perfume he liked to imagine came straight from her skin so buttery was its complexion.

Now and then she turned to face her ambivalent audience. She fixed them with the studied empty stare that had inspired her new name.

Whilst the others blushed with embarrassment and returned to their books, he held her gaze.

Stared right back and imagined running through grassy fields on forest edges with her. Of exchanging student cigarettes and contraband kisses and smelling the sweetness that he knew her scent up close must be.

Was it wrong, so wrong that he followed her each afternoon as she crossed college green to the museum?

Was it really out of line for him to stand out of sight as she stood before Assyrian kings hunting tamed lions?

He longed to catch her as those noble beasts before them were caught in stone but sensed among classical statues and ancient sarcophogi that he never could or should.

At first Prada Infusion d’Iris gives the impression of being something of a blank canvas of a scent.

It belongs to a fraternity of fragrances that came about as the price of precious iris essence fell dramatically a few years ago.

But where others exploited the market to make only moderately pleasant perfumes, Prada has created something truly special out of an apparently slight, near almost nothingness.

It is the fragrance equivalent of a film score composed only of artificial bridsong.

Here the house style of ingenuous ambiguity bordering on vacuous perfection is turned from sin into salvation.

This fragrance follows a simple line unswervingly from citrus start through first chalk then buttered iris to a smoked vetiver finish that is vertiginous in its insubstantial depths.

This is a scented Kim Novak-like vessel which invites James Stewarts everywhere to put their fantasies into it.

Fresh? Clean? Floral? Powdered? Buttered? Steely? Smoky? Wooded?

The choice ultimately is yours.

This is your Hitchcock Blond to do with as you will.

And as infatuation crosses all gender lines to the wrong side of the tracks, I see no reason why a certain kind of confidently, assertively unsure-of-himself sort of man shouldn’t wear this.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Frieze, Frame, Fragrance……….. The Perfumed Dandy’s Photo and Aroma Essay

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Until the cranes came yesterday to start taking it way, the Frieze Art Fair has been here.

A festival as much it seems dedicated to Mammon as Minerva this mammoth selling exhibition conquers an ever growing corner of The Dandy’s Beloved Regent’s Park for a few more days as each year passes.

In recent times some crumbs have been thrown from the tables of the oligarchs and art dealers who are ferried here in a steady stream of black cabs, silver ‘special visitor’ automobiles and limousines from whichever five star hotels they stay at.

‘A Sculpture Park’ is erected on general view in The English Garden.

And very shiny it was this year too, so I thought I’d share a few snaps, and the scents the ‘sculptures’ brought to mind… I wonder if you can guess why?

There may be some clues if you click on a few of the perfumes…

1. Very Important Perfume

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2. Gave Good Face

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3. Disjointed Horizon

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4. The Big “C”

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5. Modern Landscape

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6. Coiled

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7. One Shed of Grey

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8. Fabric Knits Us Together

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9. From Another Age

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10. All You Need Is

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Until the art world descends again….

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Which ‘ladies’ scent’ will this gent wear next? The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade #105

The Hit Parade

The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade for 22nd October 2013.

As you no doubt know by now… The Perfumed Dandy is your ever faithful servant, always ready to take on the most fearsome of fragrant tasks on your behalf.

The Perfumed Dandy’s Hit Parade is yet more evidence of his loyalty and unstinting labours…

This crop of finely crafted fragrances represents the most popular perfumes put forward for The Perfumed Dandy‘s perusal by you good people here and on the other most venerable and sweetly scented websites known to man.

Simply cast your TWO VOTES for any of the candidates from the sumptuously smelling selection below by responding to this post.

Every vote means that the scent in question take a step nearer to getting on to my skin.

The winning perfume will be worn by The Perfumed Dandy at the next possible opportunity after which I will report back on our relations, in breathtaking detail, for your hopeful edification.

The choice is yours… what scent will The Dandy wear next on Thursday 24th October 2013?

Make your choice from the star spangled list below…

L’Eau by Chloe

Ange ou Demon by Givenchy

Lipstick Rose by Frederic Malle

O de Lancome by Lancome

Donna by Trussardi Chanel

Visa by Robert Piguet 

Fame by Lady Gaga

Poison by Dior

Cristale Noir by Versace

Or the newcomer…

Noa by Cacharel

You have until 0800 hours Thursday British Summer Time (it is still officially summer here time-wise until Sunday!) – when the polls close in London – to cast your vote.

The winner will be announced with due fanfare around midday BST!!

Don’t forget that to nominate a fragrance for inclusion on this list of all time favourites you can simply visit ‘Suggest a new scent or recommend an old one’

Have an especially fragrant day.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Piano Teacher… Iris Poudre by Frederic Malle The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

He looked up with wide, wide open dark brown eyes.

“Eyes as deep and dark as coal mine shafts” his grandfather said.

Surrounded by childish lashes so long it seemed as though he had been made up in kohl.

So the Indian doctor in the village, immaculate in his pink turban, told him.

Her hair was grey, and white and black, like the ash from the hearth at home.

The room smelt clinical, almost chemical at first.

He knew she doused the keys with an anti-sceptic solution before each tutee.

She still feared the flu that took her husband forty years before, just after he had survived the first war.

And now there had been another one and a winter so cold it carried off almost as many.

“I’m sprinkling the talcum powder on the piano now.”

She spoke in her serious staccato way, understanding the need to rouse him from his reveries as she must do every time if anything were to be achieved.

From a height as high as her elegant slender arms were long she sprang a cascade of white flecks, drew an opalescent curtain across the air between the dark wood panelled walls and them.

“To think…” she reflected out loud and not for the first time, “…this room was once a public house, a cheap piano on this very spot rang out with even cheaper tunes.”

Through the temporary drapes of dust he saw irises on a side table made almost pale and indistinct, their deep rich purple turned a dusky pink.

“Powder on the fingers only. I shall be checking that there are no white marks on your palms or wrists.”

“Elevation. Remember to keep everything aloft.”

“Let’s begin.”

First scales, certain and assertive, then arpeggios, chords and familiar sequences.

Fifteen minutes or so passed, his fingers should be warm by now, but in the cold and amidst the soot and lint and ash he still felt frigid.

She took his frosty hands in hers and turned them over to examine for traces of powder.

She was colder even than him and up close smelt of the same ethereal cleanliness as the piano keys.

Some of the talc had come to rest on the black shawl that shrouded her tiny shoulders, he smelt it now and knew it was a desiccated version of the flowers in the vase by the table against the wall.

“Very good. Nothing on the palms or wrists at all.”

“Even for an eleven year old your hands are small, but your extension is wonderful.”

She thought, but did not say, “Perhaps it is because you have to fight for every note that you play so beautifully.”

Now she spoke, “Brahms today. The waltzes.”

“How to make happy dances sound sad”, he thought.

“Oh but they’re not sad,” she said “…they are wistful, which as you will discover is something altogether different.”

“The waltzes.” He repeated in a whisper.

Composed for four hands originally then rearranged for two.

The single pianist’s pieces came in difficult and simplified versions.

He, of course, would play the harder solo part.

As did she.

Iris Poudre by Pierre Bourdon for Editions de Parfums Frederic Malle is perhaps the greatest contemporary interpretation of an Iris perfume in the grand mid-Century manner.

Stern and stylish, neo-classical and well-informed it is an intellectual as well as sensual event.

None of which cleverness takes anything away from its angular, fine-boned beauty, which, with age fleshes out to a softer more approachable attractiveness.

Despite what official notes may claim, the opening, in line with convention is aldehydic.

A spry, strict accord that continues structurally well into the perfume, providing an olfactory cantilever for what is to come.

It holds the less concrete notes aloft, a firm adult wrist attached to a juvenile pianist’s malleable young hands.

And what is to come is exactly as the name suggests: iris and powder.

The former less vegetal, less abundantly floral than we may all have become accustomed too. More reserved, modest perhaps, seeking to form part of a composition rather than to stand alone as a singular star.

The powder, supplied by musk, is pure best grade talcum, not so rich nor sweet as makeup.

As such it will divide opinion and have some squeamishly protest ‘old lady’.

Pshaw.

Grande Dame’ captures it much better.

This is unapologetically not a modern perfume, it is an older style of great, but restrained, yet utterly romantic scent.

It is a love affair conducted by lengthy letter not a series of speed dates set up on anonymous websites.

In time those letters smell will be transmuted by age and fondness into the same dry down of soft hay-toned paper and light vanilla as the perfume, then a moment later demi-sec dust again, then hay once more.

Like memories of a grand amour twinkling across a universe of time.

Iris Poudre is, in the truest sense, a fine fragrance.

I have heard it remarked that this scent is about as ungentlemanly as one can get.

No doubt that is on account of the associations of aldehydes and musk with the great ‘feminines’ of the past.

For any man unable to break these bounds it will be impossible to wear.

I have no trouble with any of the great irises of olfactory history and quite loved this.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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The Boss… Azuree by Estee Lauder The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Pop the champagne corks people the prima donna power woman has been promoted to the top.

She enters as always in a graphite pencil skirt sharpened to a point and beautifully tailored jacket tucked at the nearly-not-there waist then angularly out to fill full broad shoulders.

One significant piece of jewellery.

She snaps a greeting to the crowd then an invitation to the few: her office, vintage fizz on ice…

“Now!”

This crazy French  rush her only concession to her elevation.

Yes it has been hard work. 

There were others in the field.

Too right, they fell by the wayside.

Too bad.

Not the women they used to be.

She’s twice the woman she’s ever been.

The party over before it begins. She throws her Barda bag onto a glass and chrome coffee table where today as every day a fresh bunch of red carnations dressed with green grey moss buys time in a clear cube.

A feeble nod to a futile idea of femininity in a room that is a temple to the tanner’s art.

In the vestibule cringeing would-be colleagues cower on Barcelona chairs awaiting an audience with this new crowned empress of commerce.

Ushered in they sit on couches by le Corbusier, sipping too hot, too strong herb tea from constructivist espresso coffee cups while waiting to explain themselves.

It turns out their copy is, well, just not good enough.

The men leave. They are, if not fired, not hired either.

Appointments continue throughout the day, no let up in her manner no diminution of her power.

She departs in private elevator to chauffeur driven car to private elevator and finally top floor apartment.

Only the cheap take Penthouses, and then only for the articles.

At home and undressed, alone except for powder, she is poise and self possession personified.

An ornament of amber glows warmth across her expansive inner space.

Do they like her?

She laughs.

Does she care?

She doesn’t want love, affection, gratitude, infatuation, respect or even adoration.

She simply demands that they worship and obey her.

Azuree by Estee Lauder is to the power chypre what the Apollo moon rocket is to long haul air travel.

In these days of reductive reformulation she is a monument to ambition, quality of construction, projection and longevity, in every sense of that word.

Opening in a vertical trajectory, fueled by aldehyde and super charged bergamot, this scent is heading for the stars.

The interior of USS Azuree is pure leather, no PVC and hard plastics here.

In order to retain a sense of space age decorum, the more animalic elements are banished by a good strong bunch of synthesized herbs and a modest bouquet of boiled up blooms.

The pace is maintained a million miles or more, then, arriving at it’s destination our spacecraft scent slows almost to a stop, allows the softest of amber landings.

Mission accomplished.

Can a man wear it?

Azuree could be in a crowd of super heavyweight boxing champions and still be the butchest one in the room.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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All tomorrow’s parties… Shalimar by Guerlain The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

“Really, I don’t understand why some people have such a problem with parties.”

“I do believe I was born to the sound of a champagne cork and I tell you I am determined to spend what little time I have on this Earth having the best possible time this planet can provide.”

A certain slyness in her eyes says there’s more to it.

Darkness flashes beneath the surface like a sea serpent in shallow water.

There’s danger here.

Best appreciated on her own, away from her set, she’s an incredible jewel of a thing.

Intricate and simple, worldy and naïve, sexy but oh so straight laced.

Happy, happy, happy all the time, but oh so inconsolably sad.

You see her at parties across the room, sipping fizz or gem stone cocktails, making small talk with big men, opening her eyes a little too wide when she smiles, throwing her head back a little too far, too fast when she laughs too wildly at another “too funny” unfunny joke.

And in the daylight?

Mostly her make up is too heavy, too sweet.

Her leather boots too high and her dresses too low on top, too short down below.

She looks always like an actress between scenes.

She smokes frankincense cigarettes through a filter three feet long, pours vanilla syrup in her coffee and always takes cream when everyone else settles for milk.

van_gogh_irises_framed

She insists on irises all year round to fill the rooms she shares with no one.

She’s too, too much for the real world.

For the real world was too, too much for her once.

She rolled in honey harvest time hay with a swell in uniform smelling of polished army boots and wood smoke cologne.

He promised her they were only “going across The Pond to finish things off”.

And they were, except he got finished off first.

The Roman Catholic funeral mass helped, but not much.

Not as much as a brace of Manhattan’s made with Canadian whiskey.

So now she settles for this life of extremes, for a pot bellied pig on a lead for a pet, for singing in Speakeasies for fun and smoking hashish for the giggles.

For flirting with everyone and sleeping with some. For forgetting half the time and never loving, no one except “the one”.

For staying out of the sunlight and hogging the limelight.

For being a star not a woman, though that’s all she ever wanted to be.

Except, occasionally, on a Winter’s day, when the light is thin and she can wrap up in furs without being the first thing they see.

Then she’ll go out without the makeup, the filter, the fans and even the pig.

And then she really is a woman, living in a real world, just one who really can’t help but be a star.

A lone star.

To talk of Shalimar merely as a party perfume is a little like dismissing Proust as a man who wrote about miniature cakes.

The original of the modern Oriental, it is both the most magnificent of going out scents and so much more besides.

Like those other great Guerlain’s of the period Mitsouko and l’Heure Bleue it is impossible to divorce from history.

If they are the perfumes of remembrance and contemplation respectively then this is fragrance of forced forgetfulness.

To understand the 1920s, the wild parties and wilful self-destruction it is perhaps necessary to consider the mass destruction and wide, seemingly endless pain of The Great War.

To comprehend Shalimar one must be aware of all the memories this ray of glamour sought to bleach out of millions of minds.

Yet at the same time it is new found wealth and extravagance, it is fresh pressed myths and the magic of the movies.

It is the olfactory equivalent of a Busby Berkeley Broadway show or the silent movie spectacle of Ben Hur.

It seeks to entice, amuse, enthral and amaze.

It seeks to be the ultimate diversion.

In all of this it is very nearly succeeds, for it is a joyous explosion of the senses, a smell synonymous with dressing up and going off down town.

But at once, in the thick saving face maquilage of powdery iris, the soothing crème-brulee-of-the-soul vanilla, in the taught leather gloves of motor sport drivers’ victory waves and army officers’ good bye salutes, in the high mass smoke and balsam of incense and bezoin, in all of this it is a record of all that has gone before.

Shalimar is darkness and light, pleasure and pain, hope and despair.

Shalimar is legend.

Forgive me for not talking too specifically of notes so far as Shalimar is concerned… it seems superfluous, there are so many and blended much as they might be in a symphony.

And like a symphony, or perhaps more aptly an opera, Shalimar is a work of art not a collection of crotchets and minims, A and B flats.

Needless to say The Dandy wears Shalimar as much as any other single perfume in his collection.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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