Of birthday gifts and wishes… Mahon Leather by Floris The Perfumed Dandy Says “Thank You!” 

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Dearest Friends

A quick note to say thank you all for your wonderful birthday wishes of yesterday.

And well done too to Miss Misty and Eva MG who correctly guessed the mystery perfume as Floris’ Mahon Leather.

It’s a soft, sophisticated finely floral leather with heaps of balsam and a touch of powder.

Anyone who likes their hide dressed in irises and with just a dab of vintage Guerlain powder would love this… The Dandy most certainly did, it was gift received with grace (one hopes) and much gratitude.

Now, on with Autumn.

With heartfelt thanks.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

Post script…

The Dandy is still without the facility to comment here or on others’ blogs, a result, I am informed, of an ‘update’. 

I am still avidly reading and mentally corresponding and hope it will not be too long before I can do so ‘for real’ once again too.

Pray forgiveness for my ongoing and involuntary ignorance.

TPD.

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Can you guess….? The Perfumed Dandy’s Birthday Scent

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A splendid gift this morning… glorious sunshine and something rather special in a bottle…

Any ideas what it might be?

Answer tomorrow as I’m off out already to enjoy the weather and being spoilt, so no more words from me aujourd’hui!

Yours ever (older but still youthful)

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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An Upcoming Event: Chandler Burr… In conversation at The Illuminum Fragrance Lounge

Dear Friends (especially those based in London, or at least Blighty)

One of the most popular posts that The Dandy has ever committed to the internet was an interview with Chandler Burr, way backing in the Summer heights of August (if you missed it just click on the link to take a peek).

Chandler, known, no doubt, to most if not all of us, is a journalist, author, critic and now ‘Curator of the Department of Olfactory Art’ at New York’s MAD (Museum of Art and Design).

Well, Mr Burr will be appearing in London this week as part of a season of installations and exhibitions on ‘Perfume as Art’ at the Illuminum Fragrance Lounge on Dover Street.

Doesn’t it looked dashed comfy there!?!

The salon discussion will be hosted by Laura Bailey, AnOthermag.com Editor and perfume writer and, what’s more, tickets are on sale right now….

In fact, as I thought you might be interested, all the relevant details are jotted down below.

When? 13th November 2013

What time? 6pm – 8pm

Where? The Illuminum Fragrance Lounge, 41-42 Dover St, Mayfair London

How does one get in?
Tickets @ £15 each are available from http://buytickets.at/illuminumfragrance/11596

I’ve also been told to tell you that the soiree will be topped off by a drinks reception and there’s a ‘fragrant surprise’ for all the guests.

How lovely.

Just like Wild Tobacco, an Illuminum scent The Dandy reflected upon just recently (click on the links or image to share my thoughts).

If you’re in or around town I do hope you’ll be able to pop in… oh and do drop by here afterwards to tell us all about it.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

Post Script…

My conversation with Chandler was one part of a series with a number of bloggers organised by the inimitable Lanier of Scents Memory. You can find the others (or keep an eye out for their forthcoming appearance) on the following estimable websites:

Australian Perfume Junkies: http://australianperfumejunkies.com/

Smelly Thoughts: http://smellythoughts.wordpress.com/

Another Perfume Blog: http://anotherperfumeblog.com/

EauMG: http://www.eaumg.net/

What Men Should Smell Like: http://whatmenshouldsmelllike.com/

The Scented Hound: http://thescentedhound.wordpress.com/

The Fragrant Man: http://thefragrantman.com/

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Monstrous machine… Futur by Robert Piguet The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

It glowed, it gleamed, it begat electrical halos green like laser beams.

Then, it stirred.

At first the sheer extremity of it all inspired awe.

A vertiginous wrench at the small intestines.

A looking over the temporal precipice into the abyss below.

The shape of things to come.

Swathed in a menacing miasma of green, this gorgon wonder is a thing unseen before.

It is a woman all man made, entirely artificial with nothing of it natural.

Yet, it takes a shape that apes the organic world.

Its metal face turns soft, its steel frame melts to flesh and curls.

It wears plastic flowers in the form of jasmines and violets in jade hair made very platinum blond.

Crazed and delusional the illusion proves insupportable.

The science is not yet sufficiently tough.

Crushed by the clock the horror is over not a moment too soon in a scene that is somehow not long enough.

Exhausted and spent the last seconds are series of flashes and sparks that signal final torment.

That which never truly lived is dead.

Earth reclaims the air and fills it strangely with the fragrance of leaves and trees.

But are they real?

Is anything?

Futur by Robert Piguet is a science fiction scent recreated from a memory of a vision of a new and unfolding universe.

It is a brave attempt to re-imagine the bravado-laden optimism of 1960s in olfactory form.

Sadly though, for all its virtues, this perfume never reaches the realms of a classic fantasy.

Instead, it is a digitally linear exercise in abstract green.

Yes, there are hints at jasmine and violet (mainly leaf), nods to vetiver and bitter orange and the occasional allusion to a patchouli and wood axis.

However, this is a scent entirely dominated, consumed even, by a central and wholly synthetic green accord that is in essence chemical rather than natural.

There may have been time, probably around the point at which the perfume originally appeared, when this seemed dramatic, daring, an augur of of the future.

Now it seems industrial, bordering on the functional and a testament in scent to the notion that nothing seems as unreal as yesterday’s vision of tomorrow.

A great curiosity this, and one, for all my reservations that I am very glad I’ve tried, though whether it can survive when even a green devil such as The Dandy would find it difficult to wear, I doubt.

Now, of course, I am desperate to try the vintage!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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“No comment…!” The Perfumed Dandy’s Involuntary Vow of Silence

‘No comment’ is a splendid expression. I am using it again and again.
Winston Churchill

Old WordPress seems to be having one of those odd turns when she won’t let one do all manner of things, in this case leave comments, and for no apparent reason.

So if you find The Dandy somewhat delayed in his responses to your bon mots these days, and almost absent from my favourite blogs and fora, please do not suppose it because I have gone away or am in a fit of pique, simply that until these technological absurdities are sorted out I have been silenced.

Boo hoo.

I do so hope we shall talk soon, meanwhile I’m always around and abouts at twitter and facebook

Yours ever, and in anticipation of a swift return to commentary.

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Gunpowder, treason and perfume… The Perfumed Dandy’s Bonfire Night Fragrances 

Careering through the celebrations and commemorations as we do in this part of the world at this time of year we arrive at what is commonly known as ‘Bonfire Night’.

In remembrance of a failed plot to explode our (still extant and still unelected) House of Lords in 1605, great conflagrations are set alight across the land, effigies of the chief conspirator, Guy Fawkes are burnt atop the flames, and fireworks in their thousands are sent soaring into the usually cold and damp skies.

Before setting off to catch a display or two from up a local hill The Dandy shares a few scent associations with this strangest of British festive nights….

1. Gunpowder

From fireworks and in to remember plots past.

2. Wood (ready for the flames)

Though one concedes this would be an event where they were burning artists’ pencils en masse.

3. Tomato

If only the ketchup for the inevitable hotdogs smelt as supreme as this scent.

4. Coca Cola

What else to wash the treason down with?

5. Afterwards (woodsmoke)

When everything has settled down and the whizzbangs are over.

There are scented letters on Feminite du Bois and Youth Dew if you would care to peruse, otherwise…

Have an exuberantly explosive evening!

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Orange ever after… Tilda Swinton Like This… by Etat Libre d’Orange The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

From All Saints’ Day onward for about a week or maybe two, through All Souls’ Day and Bonfire Night, he keeps up a steady round of collecting.

At first people are unwilling to give up their gourdes.

Either they have invested too much effort in carving their gruesome, welcoming faces or they promise themselves that they will roast the seeds and scoop out the flesh for purees and pies.

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They never do.

And so as November wears on, after a second or third time of asking, neighbours and strangers are more prepared to surrender their squashes.

It could of course have been that they think him somewhat strange in his frugal requests and want to forbid his return by acquiescing to let him have their discarded fruits.

Certainly he cuts a figure odd enough to engender fear: rangy in unkempt, well cut antique tweeds, flowing cream collarless shirts with double cuffs never fastened at the end of simian arms.

A single rose in his untidy, unwinding buttonhole.

Upon his head a moss green bowler hat that can’t ever hope to keep control of the extravagant red hair exploding forth in natural ringlets.

Maybe some of them have seen the ritual he performs once his harvest is gathered in.

In his back garden a pile of pumpkin shells a man or so high stands, and when he is satisfied that no more will come his way he begins his mellow fruited mass.

First, a strengthening soup, made from orange juice and the soft insides stewed with ginger and spice, served with heavy bread topped with the toasted seeds.

Then he withdraws his instrument from its ancient wooden case.

A croquet mallet, hip high in height, rendered in light wood, sunset velvet wrapped around the shaft to form a grip.

He swings the hammer high above his head taking on a golfer’s gait.

With a sound like sirens hissing it stirs a great arc in the sky before landing a blow upon an unsuspecting orange sphere.

The smashing of the pumpkins has begun.

And in the next hour or so, as short Autumn dusk becomes night, lit by the flames of the hundreds of candles he has set about his makeshift altar, he will reign down a shower of coups upon the crop.

Until, at last, all is reduced to a great wet rubble that he covers in already rotting leaves and old bouquets of immortelles, the daisies the English call ‘everlasting’.

Pungent of spiced pumpkin and with something of decaying flowers about it Etat Libre d’Orange’s Tilda Swinton Like This is a sickening, almost sublime anti-gourmand scent.

It is a sweet but rather uneasy, certainly not mellow, impression of the after-harvest.

Individual notes are discernable, most especially pumpkin, immortelle daisies and ginger, with an abiding tangerine note that is too sedate to be truly citrus.

But it is the general accord, the olfactory equivalent of the colour ‘burnt orange’, the shade the leaves of certain trees turn before they fall, that remains in the senses longest.

The perfume’s chief achievement is the marrying of these very specific and realistic tones and an architecture which is as abstract as it is linear.

Yet for all that it is an undoubtedly accomplished piece of work, it seems distant, strange and strangely unfulfilling being neither a satisfactory scent of the happy harvest nor a fragrance that captures the inherent sadness of the fall.

It is something in between.

Neither red nor yellow.

It’s a very odd and orange sort of thing.

Being in between I suppose it could be classed as unisex, so a man or woman could wear it with ease. But not The Dandy.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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White witch… Magie Noire by Lancome The Perfumed Dandy’s Halloween Scent 

Black magic is the new black.

Occult the new cult.

Wicked is wicked.

If ever a perfume was created that conjured up images of extreme glamour coupled with supreme sorcery then Lancome’s iconic Magie Noire is it.

It is the Veronica Lake of the Wiccan olfactory world.

Scarcely ever can evil have smelt so delicious and disturbing at once.

Darkly mossy and animalic with a streak of sheer sang froid.

This is bewitchment in a black leotard and high heel shoes.

With more ingredients than a treasured spell and more discords than a coven in revolt it is the High Priestess of unholy scents.

Glorious, gory, insouciant, stylish and incredibly bad, in the very, very best of ways.

Magie Noire is the smell of a dark brooding power abroad in the kingdom.

And as the witching hour approaches The Dandy will be donning a good spritz or deadly seven of the best vintage, warding off prankesterish children and welcoming in evil spirits.

May the potion preserve you until morning is come.

Thank you all for your wonderful suggestions of a suitably otherworldly aroma for tonight … I will be sure to track them all down, try them Spanish Inquisition style and return with my reports in time for next All Hallows Eve.

Yours evermore

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Dark night, Green Knight… La Nuit by Paco Rabanne The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

All Hallow’s Eve.

Darkness.

Four hundred feet tall the hall and twice as long again.

A human being hoard gathers beneath hammer beam ceiling to celebrate the old day’s death and the coming of the dawn bringing with it the return of holy souls.

At the upper table sit the twelve on their dais.

Joined only by England’s fairest rose. A rose queen fit for Camelot’s King.

Their leather layered armour lined with fur is laid aside for revelry and love’s sake. No swords raised so recently in religious anger to shed infidel blood will be unsheathed tonight.

Beyond their bethroned and handsome huddle the ugly crowd, craws and cranes to catch sight of the delights and delicacies their semi-deities dine on.

Here tankards of mead, that is honey wine, wash down plates of oriental sweetmeats: preserved peaches, clove pickled oranges and lemons from the heal of Italy.

The throng contemplates such meal time majesty as among them their beasts mingle with their own offspring. The cattle, the oxen, the sheep even. Their fur, their fleas, their faeces.

The whole hall is unwashed in animal grandeur.

Yet she, Guinevere, England’s flower shines out as if from on higher still.

Her peerless note of manicured and manured rose cutting through the woodmoke, the wooden beams, the mosses of the woods just waiting to burn.

Then the gigantic green unbidden figure appears.

Unarmoured in his enormity. Unarmed save for a extraordinary axe and an holy bow in other hand.

He booms: ‘Who will accept my challenge?

Rats flee, sheep scatter, men cower and children scream.

The Queen alone remains resolute.

One man steps forward.

‘I will’.

So the journey begins.

Paco Rabanne’s La Nuit is a perfume of the darkest, starless night, almost sacrilegious in its animalistic sexual intensity.

It is a fragrance both feral and fecal, given mediaeval epic length and grandeur by a structure of heavy moss-frosted wooden lintels.

And yet, at it’s heart there is a powerful rose. Which, at first appearing innocent, is too revealed to be both knowing and corruptible.

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This is a scent of labour and war like aggression taken from the brink of actual violence by the be-stilling force of a floral feminine aspect.

Sadly lost to us for now, out of print and unregarded. As long as original manuscripts exist its mythic status can only grow.

So that tiresome modern question? Male or female?

I suggest you go read your sagas for the Witch and the Knight play equal parts in this story and should in this scent too.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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Flight of the living dead… Obsession by Calvin Klein The Perfumed Dandy’s Scented Letter

Dearests

All of you in regular receipt of The Dandy’s Scented Letters will know that a perfume normally inspires in me images and tales, some drawn from experience, others from the past, a majority from the imagination, others from involuntary emotional response.

I have to tell you that, in all frankness and with great gratitude, The Dandy has never been anywhere lived through anything, experienced any sensation or felt any emotion that fully equates to the current incarnation of Calvin Klein’s Obsession.

I have not imagined, even in my Halloween nightmares, anything that quite equates to this horror.

Nor do I ever wish to.

This rancorous confection explodes into a room like cheap drugstore oriental pot pourri spilling forth from its cellophane gift wrap. Suddenly everywhere is synthetic spices and desiccated, no plasticised fake flower petals all competing for their share of the olfactory action.

At every attempt to get the hideous play perfume stuff back into the bag merely results in the malodorous miasma reaching out further into space.

Have a caution though, dear reader, for it is worse, far worse than that….

The opening is an awful admixture of cheap air freshner and the sickly sweet smell of the vomit of a child who’s been stuffed with too much candy. The stink that the stupid deodorizer was trying to cover up in the first place merely amplified by the artificial presence.

Oh no!

And at this moment The Dandy raises a silk handkerchief to his moist brow, furrowed by painful recollection… I have remembered.

There was a time, a place.

An EgyptAir flight returning to London from Luxor at some unearthly hour.

Nothing by way of inflight entertainment barring a juddering, decades old VHS that desecrates the beauties of this magnificent country with its luridly coloured cheap camera shots and harsh jangling soundtrack turned up way too loud.

It is plays again and again on a loop, every twenty six minutes we re-enter the same circle of hell afresh.

We are recovering from the mandatory fumigation of the cabin courtesy of our none to courteous crew when…

Whoosh!!!

A plume of projectile vomit erupts from a small though rotund child two rows in front and to my left.

It is the boy I had seen eating nougat throughout our four hour delay in the cramped, sweaty, tent-like departure lounge.

It sprays down the aisle and lands with a wet thud on the threadbare carpet and then sits there, glaring at us, challenging us to take it on.

After an initial flurry the stewardesses decide that their manicured hands are no match for this freshly minted monster. They elect to delicately, almost ladylike, lay paper towels over the offending excretion and ignore it.

Well not quite ignore it. After some rattling in the galley and much conversation a massive ancient canister, the size of a small fire extinguisher emerges and the hostesses pull the trigger.

Psssht.

Its vile gas is immersed into the sealed container in which we are now held hostage to these olafactory terrorists.

The first time this happens, dear reader, The Dandy himself is very nearly sick.

I vainly try to distract myself by attempting to pick out the notes of the gas from those of the juvenile puke.

Spices, anonymous and cloying, sweetness, exactly like the regurgitated nougat it is attempting to conceal, assorted over-ripe fruits.

It is a cut price, dayglo, distant cousin to vintage Tabu; produced in great vats and forgotten about in dusty corners until occasions like this arise…

Pssht.

Once more into the breach. For each time the noxious chemical odour subsides out come our faithful fumigators to odorise us once more.

Approximately every 18 minutes.

For the next five hours.

When we land, everyone stands before we are allowed, in truth before we’ve fully touched down.

Cabin fever has set in.

A scramble for luggage and then when the door opens a surge, almost as forceful as the semi-digested fluid from the unfortunate youngster’s mouth.

We have to be released.

In the airport and all the way home The Dandy couldn’t, and not for want of trying friends, remove the stench. Even after bathing and a night’s sleep something horrible in every way, a sickly secretion, seemed to seep from me.

So, I thank you, Obsession.

You have ‘helped’ The Dandy unearth a memory so painful, so vile that I’d buried it so deep to never have to remember it again.

Now, Obsession, all I want to do is forget you.

By way of explanation, chers amis, this recherche was spurred by the Eau de Parfum that is retailing in the United Kingdom at reputable shops and at ludicrously cut prices at some drugstore chains.

I can’t comment on vintage or other formulations, my memories of them are of over powering and overwhelming scents, of which my mother and other female friends took a very dim view.

Such is my devotion to you that I tried no fewer than six examples at which my will, indeed my will to live evaporated.

Oh but that the perfume had so quickly done the same.

The Dandy could describe the notes in more detail but, please, I beg you no more torture. Suffice it to say this is a journey into the twilight and beyond.

As for silage, too long, way too long, like a bout of recurrent nausea.

Now, I must rest.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy

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