Monthly Archives: June 2013

The Perfumed Dandy’s Surprise Scent Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca by Guerlain


Aren’t surprises the very best thing?

Today The Dandy was about his affairs, readying some scenes from the Americas for your delectation, when there came a ring at the door.

And who should it be but a gentleman bearing flowers… it was a delivery man not an admirer I should add… but nevertheless this unbidden bouquet has quite made my day.

The arrangements of pinks and greens has assumed a pride of place in my sitting room, and I thought I should accompany it with the last gift I received…

An hefty spray from a generous flacon of Guerlain’s Aqua Allegoria Nerolia Bianca.

Indeed, all this seems quite appropriate as the Aqua Allegorias are proving to be something of a summertime surprise, nay revelation, to The Dandy.

Much that one reads about Guerlain‘s fragrant waters declares them simple and fleeting and natural as though all of these were self evidently self defeating qualities.

Yet, to The Dandy‘s way of thinking there’s a time and place for perfumes that are all three of these things.

Quite besides, not all of the allegories are all or any of these things, at least not at once.

Take the latest, my Nerolia Bianca, it is a wonderful rendition of the bitter orange tree entire, not just the fruit, but the flowers, the leaves, the trunk, the wood and the soil surrounding it too.

It is a complete and precisely painted portrait of a complex plant.

Opening as tart juice, it passes through a mildy astringent but very green heart to a warm and floral arboreal conclusion.

The perfume’s quiet progression goes unnoticed by some and the scent is mistakenly thought to be linear. Simplistic. It isn’t.

As I am increasingly discovering Thierry Wasser’s work at Guerlain, Aquas Allegoria included, demands more attention than it seems currently to receive.

Beyond flat as glass surfaces of apparently straightforward ideas lie depths of subtlety and fractions of intelligent tenderness.

I think I may be hooked.

Perhaps dear readers one day you will recommend a preferred Aqua Allegoria for my full consideration, only Laurier Reglisse so far features among the five hundred fragrances you have put forward for my perusal.

Until that time they must remain a private pleasure for high days and holidays.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy


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Our Agent Returns… le 3e Homme de Caron The Perfumed Dandy’s Selected Sunday Scent


Well My Dears

Your temporary man in America has returned home and to his writing desk.

I did miss you all terribly you know.

After a couple of days to clear the head and get my bearings, I am ready, just about, to go once more into the breach and recommence my adventures in the world of “women’s” perfume.

But before I do, I thought I would indulge myself with a little choice of my own and what better than…

le 3e Homme de Caron by Caron?

After all, what perfume could possibly be more appropriate for a traveler returned than this French masterpiece, inspired by a classic British film, directed by the illegitimate son of a Knight of the Realm and photographed by an Australian in ‘Dutch Angles, about an American writer in post war Austria all set to the unforgettable tune of an Hungarian zither player!

As if all of that were not enough, I read, after years of wearing this chypre-like delight, that some perfume writers consider it too ‘pretty’ for men… and wonder if any wear it!?!

Well to that there is an emphatic answer…. I am The Third Man!!!

Oh, gosh, all this voyage voyage has gone to my head… I am The Perfumed Dandy.

One last reason why I chose this Carol Reed-influenced Caron today is that The Dandy bought his latest stash a sensational little store on off Lexington Avenue, NYC whilst on his travels.

More about that anon… Indeed, this week will be full of American snaps, scents and reminiscences… and perhaps the odd review here and there to boot.

And London Town?

The skies may be grey, but the people and the place remain glorious.

The weather is humdrum, the life anything but and most importantly, it’s home.

It’s good to be back.


Just one final thing… as all the best sleuths and spies are known to say…

In keeping with the mood of mystery that this magical fragrance and the classic piece of cinema that inspired it conjure…

I wonder if you might be able to solve The Dandy‘s own little perfumed puzzle and identify which London landmark ‘the third man’ was snapped outside this morning in my own humble photograph at the top of the page?

Your missing person returned.

Your very own Third Man.

Yours ever

The Perfumed Dandy.

The Perfumed Dandy


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